Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ryan Lewis
Page Views: 2,328 total · 20/month
Shared By: Hayden Miller on Apr 19, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Short route with two hard cruxes. It is called 5.13c in the guide, but it has broken twice and is considered by some to be 5.14a. More like a V8 to a V8 in my opinion which adds up to 5.13d. The second boulder problem is a bit height-dependent. My beta involves dynoing off of a left hand undercling with a right hand two finger gaston.

Location

This is a bit to the right of Black Slabbeth and currently has two hanging draws going up its black bulges.

Protection

8 draws should be enough.

Photos

rylew
  5.13c/d
rylew  
  5.13c/d
Ian gifted me this project in 2000 or 2001 and the fa was done by Ryan Lewis of Denver. Dec 3, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I tried this a bit and thought it was brick hard. Very small holds on the upper crux. I remember wishing there were a lower bolt to keep the rope out of the way on the lower crux and lessen the sketch factor clipping the first bolt. Good work, Ryan! Dec 3, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13c
Sent this yesterday. IMO, this is slightly easier than Green Bonus. I agree that this is sharp as hell, particularly the two-finger dish at the crux bulge, and the bolting could be improved. The crux bolt should probably be moved down & left ~12", and there really needs to be another bolt at the start. Until then, it's possible to scramble up to the ledge and pass a stick clip up to pre-clip. Or climb Totally Blonde and lower down this.

I really think this is a quality route, despite the above detractions. The rock is absolutely stellar, some of the best at Cactus. The moves are cerebral & fun. I tried this once in 2008 and came away with the same conclusions as everyone else: sharp, height-dependent, sandbagged. However, there is another sequence, glaringly obvious once you figure it out, that is not height-dependent, and IMO significantly easier than the beta described above. Feb 25, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
It is funny how a 20-25' choss scramble to a high first bolt undermines the experience. Feb 27, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13c
I can add a bolt if nobody objects. I thought about doing it, but I thought I should send it first in its current state. It can be made safe the way it is, but it's kinda ridiculous for a route like this, at Cactus Cliff of all places, to have too few bolts. I lead it ground up my 2nd burn, and it was mildly terrifying making the last few moves to the first bolt. You could definitely fall there, and a fall would definitely put you in the hospital (or worse). Feb 27, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13c
Ok, I emailed Ryan Lewis & Ian Spencer-Green, and they both approve the addition of a bolt at the start. If there are any objections, speak up. Feb 27, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13c
Ben & I were able to get the new bolt in today. Thanks, Ben, for the belay and the use of your drill! Mar 5, 2010