Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Richard Aschert and Bob D'Antonio, 2002
Page Views: 330 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Dec 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Start just left of Oscar de la Cholla. Climb up face and left-facing corner/crack past four bolts to a steep bulge. Clip a bolt and make a series of hard moves up to a bucket. Clip the last bolt and then the anchors.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Actually a pretty nice route with an interesting boulder-problem crux, including a dynamic move and a mono. Unfortunately, there is a drilled solution pocket right smack dab in the middle of the crux. In addition to being obviously manufactured, it is also completely unnecessary. I found an 11+ sequence that didn't touch the pocket.... Nov 25, 2011
slim

  5.12a PG13
slim    
  5.12a PG13
Not sure if something broke in the crux area since this first went up, but it feels pretty hard for 11d. This route would probably get 2 stars if the bolt at the crux was in a better location. In its current location, when you pitch off the crux move, you can end up clipping the ramp below and then swinging to the left. Kind of unpleasant. Feb 22, 2013
GabeO
New Haven, CT
  5.11d
GabeO   New Haven, CT
  5.11d
If there was a drilled pocket originally, I think it has been filled in. There is one key pocket (that I couldn't fit any of my sausage fingers into) in the crux, but it looks pretty natural to me. Feb 24, 2014
S.Stelli
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12-
S.Stelli   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12-
Top roped this climb, and found the crux sequence to be terribly difficult for an 11d.
I think something must have broken off, as I had to pull the move with a right hand two finger with a thumb stack gaston, which was basically an undercling too. Saw no evidence of a drilled pocket anywhere... the pockets I saw seemed very natural to me. Apr 1, 2015