Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Pat and Azenda Thompson, 2002
Page Views: 3,046 total · 16/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Dec 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


169 Opinions

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Description

Ian's Route is located between Alexi's Climb and Red Eclipse and shares anchors with Red Eclipse. The climb starts in the corner/crack formed by semi-detached pillar on the left and the face on the right. Bouldery opening moves take you past the first couple of bolts, past the top of the Alexi pillar, and onto a fun arete where the climbing becomes significantly easier. Continue up and right to the Red Eclipse anchors. It is a fun route; worth doing if you are in the area. Harder variations are possible.

Protection

Seven bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
This is "Ian's Route" FA: Pat & Azenda Thompson, fall 2002. FA party thought it checked in at 5.7, but it may a bit harder as your reported grade suggests. Jan 27, 2003
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8+
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8+
5.7 is probably a pretty accurate assessment of the route. I was trying hard not to reach over and use holds on the Alexi's Route pinnacle. Harder variations are possible if you stay right of the bolt line. Still a fun lead, however you do it! Enjoy and thanks for the info. Jan 27, 2003
Larry Shaw
  5.7
Larry Shaw  
  5.7
Felt in the .7 range, watch out for loose rock at the top. Jul 17, 2004
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
  5.7
Super fun, rare, fist-sized crack climb. Definitely 5.7. Called "Ian's Climb" in the Shelf Road Rock book. Mar 9, 2008
Steve Knapp
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.7+
Steve Knapp   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.7+
Nice fun crack just right of super easy Alexi's route. Crux is near the second bolt, but the holds are all there. Agree that it's a touch harder than 5.7 at the crux. Also a bit harder than 5.7 if you stay on the face/arete at the last bolt instead of moving left near the Alexi's route anchor. This is a good route to use to setup a top rop for Red Eclipse or Solar Eclipse (which we did and enjoyed profusely). Nov 22, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Probably the best of the four or so routes nearby. May 11, 2010
Rob Baumgartner
Niwot
  5.7
Rob Baumgartner   Niwot
  5.7
This can be led on gear if you're so inclined. It's no harder (probably easier) than Crynoid Corner, so I'd say 5.7 is the correct rating. Oct 29, 2013
jamesm
Canon City, Co
  5.7
jamesm   Canon City, Co
  5.7
I personally love this little area. It's tucked up out of the wind and is a great spot to bring a bunch of friends, ranging from pro climbers to noobs. This 5.7 is a great push for new climbers liking big cracks after they have warmed up on the 5.5 to the left, and for you pros there is a lot of 5.9s and harder to the right. Ohhh, about 1/4 of the way up, look for the big piece of fossilized wood as a main handhold. It's kinda cool. Apr 21, 2014