Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Musso, 2000
Page Views: 1,273 total · 7/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

Left of Funkdemental and The Raven, this climb is a little deceptive for 10b. Start at a prominent reddish block. Climb up over the bright red rock and stand atop it for the second clip. From there the rating gets more accurate and you can go left of the arete or straight on to the bolts. Either way you go you will have to use some balance to clip as the route does not have a lot of easy clip stances. Layback and undercling the corner block just before the anchors. It is probably easier to clip the anchors if you get into the crack above and to their right as trying to stretch out to the anchors from below was unbalanced.

Protection

8 [now updated to 9] bolts to anchors.

Photos

Darin Lang
  5.10c
Darin Lang  
  5.10c
The bolt placement makes the last layback/undercling before the anchors a bit more ... ennervating .. than other climbs at Cactus. Reasonably fun route with good variety. Jan 30, 2003
Edward Jenner
  5.10c
Edward Jenner  
  5.10c
Didn't like this one at all. The sort-of-fun moves at the end don't make up for the rest of the climb. We also lowered off the rings and got our rope really badly twisted. I'd not recommend this route, but if you have a go then rap off the anchors.

Glad to see Darin rate it a bit higher than 10b because I thought it was hard compared to other 10a/b's at Cactus. On the other hand, it may have just felt hader because I wasn't enjoying myself. Dec 15, 2003
A couple Alien placements helped de-spice the "balancey" bolt-clips. The guidebook says something along the lines of "when the going gets tough, head left around the corner." However, I felt that sets you up for a pendulum into the corner... especially when heading left at the anchor, which I saw a couple people do. It's a lengthy run to the anchor, and while the hands are bomber, the feet are thin (going straight up, not left), and a whoops might not be such a clean fall. Not a bad route, but I don't think I'd do it again. Dec 29, 2003
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Michael J Yarros   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Enjoyed climbing this route. Gets thin near the anchor. Oct 3, 2004
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Anchor setup needs some work. Currently rings with single quicklinks on each. The quicklinks are facing the wall, so it will twist the hell out of your rope if you use both of them. Either add another set of quicklinks (so they are facing the right way) or remove them and plan to rap off the ring bolts. Oct 15, 2012
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
 
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, CO
 
I (nervously) enjoyed this climb, but it isn't as safe as most of the other routes in the area. Solid 5.10 leaders will have no problem; new or shaky ones may. There is serious deck potential on a ledge down low, and at the top it is very runout to the anchor on nontrivial terrain. Oct 7, 2013
Kyle Katsos
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Kyle Katsos   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Where were all the crimps? Felt very runnout. Clipping positions were precarious. Feb 22, 2015