Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Stewart Green, Deb and Howard Brooks, 2000
Page Views: 1,401 total · 7/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Mar 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Description

Start just left of Ol' 47. Follow a steep lieback crack on the left side of an arete past four bolts. At the fourth bolt one can either head straight up to the anchor, which is runout and about 5.10a on very sharp rock, or pull left to the fifth bolt on Ol' 47, then head back to the anchor, which is shared with Ol' 47.

Relative to the other routes in the area, this route is a bit runout.

Protection

5 bolts.

Photos

Or pull "right" to the last bolt of Ol' 47. The fun moves in the initial lieback crack would be worth at least a star, but for the subsequent and unnecessary "do I run it out or clip a bolt from an adjacent line" choice (based on the chalk marks, most seem to have chosen the latter. Mar 18, 2002
Kreighton Bieger
  5.10b/c
Kreighton Bieger  
  5.10b/c
Whoops, meant to give this one-star. It's not that bad, but it seems like it could use another bolt. Mar 18, 2002
When I bolted "Amiga" I intended for folks to climb up right to the last bolt on "Ol'47" simply because I seemed silly to place a bolt for the direct finish that was so close to that other bolt. I say run-it-out or go right... Mar 19, 2003
Larry Shaw
  5.10c
Larry Shaw  
  5.10c
The first 25ft. are fun then it switches to standard pocket pullin'. Jul 7, 2004
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
Fun toprope for moderate climbers after leading Ol'47 (or its easier 5.7 crack variation). Apr 6, 2006
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Aside from maybe Cobra, the upper third has some of the sharpest rock at Shelf. Sep 25, 2006
Jessica Pemble
Yosemite, CA
Jessica Pemble   Yosemite, CA
What a fun route! A bit runout in one section but definitely manageable. Awesome kneebar to clip from! Jan 22, 2012