Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Rich Aschert, Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 3,882 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the old school Cactus Cliff lines. After the initial flake warm up; continuous, technical, pumpy, and sometimes balancy moves await you all the way to the anchors. A few of the sequences are hard to read, but persevere and problem solve. It may be closer to 11d/12a for the onsight climber.

Location

It is located on a prow of rock with the obvious, starting, left-facing flake. The line is immediately right of Legends on the Fall and left of the Risky Business corner and Almost Gothic.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors. Watch for some loose holds around the right side of the prow.

Photos

Aeon Aki    
 
Even after taking the whip of shame the sequence leading to the loose, chockstone undercling did not present itself. Interested to see of something may have broken off the chossy side of the blunt arete.... Nov 14, 2010
Terence
Almont, CO
  5.12a
Terence   Almont, CO
  5.12a
I hate split grades. You know what is harder than 11d... I bet you didn't guess it was 12a. Oct 31, 2011
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Fun route with several interesting sections. The new book gives it 12a, although it has been considered benchmark for Shelf 11d for a long time. There aren't any hard moves on it, but there aren't many easy ones either. Feb 22, 2013
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
The crux on this route felt like 12a to me. Maybe I just didn't find the beta. Mar 23, 2014
drewhouser
  5.12a
drewhouser  
  5.12a
12a all the way, slim bone, benchmark or no. Ratings are about consensus, not ego...drop it and realize how much more fun climbing is. Oct 31, 2014
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
... yet you feel the need to add your comment... ;) Nov 3, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
12a all day and consistent with every classic route of the grade I have done at Shelf, which may be all of them at this point.... Give it 10a or 14a if it makes you feel any better. I thought the route was great, movement was cool, and stone was awesome. Get on it and smile! Jan 18, 2015
Would it make sense to lower the anchor to the last protection bolt, thus avoiding rope gnarling for a few feet of irrelevant climbing? Dec 4, 2015