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Routes in Wendell Spire

Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castlewood Capers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cobble Wobble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phalloid Void S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Song of the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sub, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Cave Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Sport
FA: Hanson and Sills, 1995
Page Views: 858 total · 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Castlewood Capers runs up the right side of the second buttress left of Wendell Spire. Now, I am most decidedly lazy and will take an easy option when given the choice; however, while this enjoyable line has been touted to run straight up buttress two, without a stem to the right, logic and not laziness dictate the stem. The entry is not even a stem really so much as a back step of no more than two feet. One can pick their poison, but with a back step, this goes nicely at 5.11a. There are good crimps above, and it is a bit spooky making the thin reach to the left before crawling out to the face proper. It has intricate climbing.

Protection

Quickdraws and a rope.

Photos

Ben Mottinger

  5.11a
Ben Mottinger    
  5.11a
I think it's still 11a w/out a stem. Dec 1, 2002
Darin Lang
  5.11b
Darin Lang  
  5.11b
Although my climbing savvy is always suspect, I failed to see any obvious or logical stem through the crux, unless one were to go way right of the bolt line. The line either straight through or slightly to the left of the bolt line seemed fairly obvious to me, with a tricky reach left from a so-so hold and then a powerful pull/mantel to the third bolt. Fun moves and well-placed bolts.

Would be two stars if the fun moves weren't so brief.

11b/c. Jun 10, 2003
kevin jenkins
  5.11a
kevin jenkins  
  5.11a
This stays solidly at .11a if'n you wise guys stay off of the stem w/ exception of the crux. Well protected! Expect to take a fall getting to the mantel, but bring your brain and use it to, and all will be well...happy climbing! Sep 8, 2004
R Sather
COLORADO
 
R Sather   COLORADO
 
This a short, good, quality climb with a short crux. I opted to stay slightly left and hit a pinch and then up to the rail and continued to cross over along the rail to the mantle. The position of the bolts are right were you need them. Jan 11, 2015
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11b
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11b
Unless I got on the wrong route (but it was the rightmost route on the second buttress), neither my partner nor I even thought to stem, which seemed off route. The crux is shooting left hand to crimping rail/sidepull and then eventually manteling. Dec 28, 2016

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