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Routes in Wendell Spire

Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castlewood Capers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cobble Wobble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phalloid Void S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Song of the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sub, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Cave Right S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: R. M. Wright, 1995
Page Views: 2,783 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The low angled ramp offers a short easy route with a prodigious amount of bolts. It is really 5.0 until 6' to the anchors.

Protection

5 bolts to a double anchor. This route could be safely lead on gear.
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
I was surprised to see cold shuts and quicklinks for the anchors, but with the FA in '95 that was the commonly available hardware then (almost 20 y.o. hardware and was still in decent shape aside from surface oxidation), I set this up to top rope my friends young kids, lowered them to the left. Sep 27, 2014
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.5
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.5
I took my girlfriend and her daughter here. A great climb for the complete newbie. As a lead, this climb is about the easiest bolted route you will find anywhere near Denver, with the exception (perhaps) of that 5.4 on the Catslab in Clear Creek Canyon.

It is (sometimes far) easier than 5.5 until the last move a few feet before the anchor and short enough that height jitters are minimized for the newbie. Beware, though: lowering newbs here is hard on your rope, as they want to stay to the crack on climber's right, but they invariably lose their balance and roll over onto the face on the left, which is brutal on the rope. Apr 8, 2013
Marc Stuive
Parker, Co
 
Marc Stuive   Parker, Co
 
It is a great sport for the beginner, glad you enjoyed it. The best way to the Wendell Spire is to park at the South (East) entrance off 83. Park in the furthest lot away, the one with the restrooms. Take the Inner Canyon trail. The trail will lead you down some steps and across a bridge over Cherry Creek. Pass the "phallic rock" that juts up from the trail, and watch for the Wendell Spire on your right. There is a faint trail up the hill (clearly a water way when it rains) a very short distance right to the Wendell Spire wall. Enjoy! Jul 14, 2010
The frustrating thing about this climb is the location. It is the only route in this area a novice can even fathom, so if you manage to "feed the beast" in a newbie it's a haul out and to another wall... otherwise, great beginner climb fo' sho'. Jul 14, 2010
Marc Stuive
Parker, Co
 
Marc Stuive   Parker, Co
 
Great for beginning sport climbers. It is easy, fun, and allows for practice with clipping without the fear factor. Try to stay to the crack at the top without stemming to the wall on the right. Good place to practice running the rope through the achors at the top for a slow lower or rap. Mar 21, 2010
I agree...not bad for a little first lead. I'd agree that 5.6 is a way generous rating...most of it would go in tennis shoes w/out thinking twice. Just watch that you don't thwack the old noggen standing up after the last move for the anchors. Turns out there's a bit of an alcove up there. Of course, I suppose I could just be a spaz... Jun 3, 2003
An excellent beginner lead route. Maybe 5.3, with one 5.5/5.6 move right below the anchor. I'll be bringing friends here that want to learn how to lead sport routes. Feb 11, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
This route was originally bolted, sans rope by RMW. It was intended to provide a very secure place for the beginning leader to get started on the sharp end. Remarkably, shortly after the route was bolted it was led by a member of the intended target user group, a beginner. At the anchor, he and his partner proceeded to epic (a whole 35 ft off the ground!!). In the epic, the leader managed to get completely tied up in his rope, evidently by turning in circles at the anchor ledge. Not content with simple dancing around the rope, he then became completely detached from the double bolt anchor. With a little verbal urging from the ground he eventually reattached himself to the anchor, disentangled from the rope, and was then lowered to the ground. His comment upon landing was "Holy Shit, that was amazing!". Need I say more? May 21, 2001