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Routes in Wendell Spire

Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castlewood Capers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cobble Wobble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phalloid Void S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Song of the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sub, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Cave Right S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Hanson, Sills, 1995
Page Views: 740 total, 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the first route left of Wendell Spire. Svengali heads up the middle of the first buttress on alligator skin and good cobbles. It has an awkward first move. It is not my favorite climb here.

Protection

Draws and a rope.

Photos

Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11-
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11-
Definitely harder than 10d now - 11a or 11b with supposed holds having broken. The 1st bulge is super awkward; the 2nd seems really hard but wasn't too bad after searching around for a couple minutes. You can avoid using the sloping crimps on the left side.... Dec 28, 2016
I loved this climb, but ran into the same problem with rock blowing out on my. This may be a 5.10 this year, but will be a 5.12 by the time all the holds are gone. Apr 29, 2003
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
I also got shut down on the second overhang. I finally made it with a throw for the better holds above the sloppy crimpers. There used to be a small sandy ledge just under the second overhang. After I pulled through the overhang that ledge busted off and sent me scrapping back down the rock. Classic Castlewood! I've also pulled a couple of cobbles off the lower section. Just be heads up. Mar 6, 2003
Yeah, but they're positive enough if you trust 'em and pull hard... I like this one. Kind of like one boulder problem stacked on top of another. Dec 31, 2002
IMHO, this stinking thing is every part of the 11a rating. The second of the 2 overhangs you must negotiate has all kinds of tempting cracks on top that LOOK positive until you actually try to pull up on them. I'm glad no one was taking a video of me humping and grunting up that son of a... Apr 29, 2002