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Routes in Wendell Spire

Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castlewood Capers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cobble Wobble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phalloid Void S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Song of the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sub, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Cave Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Sport
FA: Tom Hanson, 1994
Page Views: 1,979 total · 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb up Wendell Spire on crisp edges and pockets. This is much harder than it looks with an interesting crux just below the anchor. However, there are two bulges to surmount and each has its own curve to throw. If things don't work out as planned, there is a nice tanning slab at the base that is usually crowded with gorgeous women!! I've always wondered if that was somehow responsible for the name.

Protection

Bring half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Darrin Stein
Vancouver, WA
  5.10b/c
Darrin Stein   Vancouver, WA
  5.10b/c
As noted...this climb is on the right hand side of the area. Climb four bolts then the anchors on the unique Castlewood Conglomerate (nature's cement I call it). Dec 10, 2001
Ben Mottinger

  5.10b
Ben Mottinger    
  5.10b
The only crux I think is the mantel over the bulge. Dec 1, 2002
Darin Lang
  5.10b
Darin Lang  
  5.10b
2 stars for the area, although short.

Crux is the mantel between the second and third bolts. The rest is no harder than 5.9. Jan 24, 2003
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
  5.10c
Ken McVicker   Aurora, CO
  5.10c
Great crux near the top. It's easy down low but get harder as you go.

Great sunny day. Lots of observer from the hiking trail below. 20+ people watched me flail. Sorry no sunbathing women.

This rating is right on. Mar 15, 2003
TJ Quirk
Parker, CO
TJ Quirk   Parker, CO
Strength required up to the first bulge. Good balance required through the reach over the second bulge to the jug. Love the comitting dyno over the second bulge. Need strength to finish the sequence to reach over and right of the anchors to the great handhold on top. Mar 14, 2010
Jon Solove
Denver, CO
Jon Solove   Denver, CO
Very cool route. Be careful not to go too far left - there is some loose, spongy rock that looks like it's ready to come off. It's off route, but weirdly inviting until you touch it.... Apr 4, 2010
You'll want a couple of double draws for the bolts above the bulges to reduce rope drag. Dec 4, 2010

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