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Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Wendell Spire
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Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beak, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Castlewood Capers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cobble Wobble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Phalloid Void S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sidewinder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Song of the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sub, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun Cave Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Anderson, Wright, Hanson, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 741 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Nov 28, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld restricted March, April, May.
Porkys Wall - restricted March, April, May, June.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld restricted March, April, May.
Porkys Wall - restricted March, April, May, June.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Left of The Sub is the Black Streak (5.13b) and just left of this is a tight corner system that comes out of the cave at the small tree growing in the path. The corner system is Seamless.
At the present writing, the route starts by stepping off the tree into a good finger-tips seam. Swing left out of the corner system onto a clean face with a vanishingly thin seam. Climb the seam on micro-tips and several tiny cobbles adjacent to the seam. Pulling through the top of the seam was originally given a 5.12c rating, however, in contrast to The Sub and Song of the Wood, my inclination is toward 12b. I'll defer the rating to Tod Anderson who snagged the FFA. Power up over a lip near the end of the seam on committing moves and grab the anchor 10 feet above and on the right.
Great stone (for Castlewood), excellent pro, and kinesthetic climbing are worth two stars.
I think everyone who has tried this route has looked for a clean start without using the tree. On 24/11/2001, we were still unable to discover even a difficult bouldering start, so until someone else can solve it without the tree, Seamless has the distinction of being CWCs only "tree start".
At the present writing, the route starts by stepping off the tree into a good finger-tips seam. Swing left out of the corner system onto a clean face with a vanishingly thin seam. Climb the seam on micro-tips and several tiny cobbles adjacent to the seam. Pulling through the top of the seam was originally given a 5.12c rating, however, in contrast to The Sub and Song of the Wood, my inclination is toward 12b. I'll defer the rating to Tod Anderson who snagged the FFA. Power up over a lip near the end of the seam on committing moves and grab the anchor 10 feet above and on the right.
Great stone (for Castlewood), excellent pro, and kinesthetic climbing are worth two stars.
I think everyone who has tried this route has looked for a clean start without using the tree. On 24/11/2001, we were still unable to discover even a difficult bouldering start, so until someone else can solve it without the tree, Seamless has the distinction of being CWCs only "tree start".
Photos
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