Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Anderson, Wright, Hanson, 1996 |
Page Views: | 1,108 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Nov 28, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per Matt Hearley: as of 2020, there is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Left of The Sub is the Black Streak (5.13b) and just left of this is a tight corner system that comes out of the cave at the small tree growing in the path. The corner system is Seamless.
At the present writing, the route starts by stepping off the tree into a good finger-tips seam. Swing left out of the corner system onto a clean face with a vanishingly thin seam. Climb the seam on micro-tips and several tiny cobbles adjacent to the seam. Pulling through the top of the seam was originally given a 5.12c rating, however, in contrast to The Sub and Song of the Wood, my inclination is toward 12b. I'll defer the rating to Tod Anderson who snagged the FFA. Power up over a lip near the end of the seam on committing moves and grab the anchor 10 feet above and on the right.
Great stone (for Castlewood), excellent pro, and kinesthetic climbing are worth two stars.
I think everyone who has tried this route has looked for a clean start without using the tree. On 24/11/2001, we were still unable to discover even a difficult bouldering start, so until someone else can solve it without the tree, Seamless has the distinction of being CWCs only "tree start".
At the present writing, the route starts by stepping off the tree into a good finger-tips seam. Swing left out of the corner system onto a clean face with a vanishingly thin seam. Climb the seam on micro-tips and several tiny cobbles adjacent to the seam. Pulling through the top of the seam was originally given a 5.12c rating, however, in contrast to The Sub and Song of the Wood, my inclination is toward 12b. I'll defer the rating to Tod Anderson who snagged the FFA. Power up over a lip near the end of the seam on committing moves and grab the anchor 10 feet above and on the right.
Great stone (for Castlewood), excellent pro, and kinesthetic climbing are worth two stars.
I think everyone who has tried this route has looked for a clean start without using the tree. On 24/11/2001, we were still unable to discover even a difficult bouldering start, so until someone else can solve it without the tree, Seamless has the distinction of being CWCs only "tree start".
Photos
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