Type: Sport
FA: Anderson, Wright, Hanson, 1996
Page Views: 741 total · 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Left of The Sub is the Black Streak (5.13b) and just left of this is a tight corner system that comes out of the cave at the small tree growing in the path. The corner system is Seamless.

At the present writing, the route starts by stepping off the tree into a good finger-tips seam. Swing left out of the corner system onto a clean face with a vanishingly thin seam. Climb the seam on micro-tips and several tiny cobbles adjacent to the seam. Pulling through the top of the seam was originally given a 5.12c rating, however, in contrast to The Sub and Song of the Wood, my inclination is toward 12b. I'll defer the rating to Tod Anderson who snagged the FFA. Power up over a lip near the end of the seam on committing moves and grab the anchor 10 feet above and on the right.

Great stone (for Castlewood), excellent pro, and kinesthetic climbing are worth two stars.

I think everyone who has tried this route has looked for a clean start without using the tree. On 24/11/2001, we were still unable to discover even a difficult bouldering start, so until someone else can solve it without the tree, Seamless has the distinction of being CWCs only "tree start".

Protection

Eight draws and a rope.

Photos

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I think the name for this route is Knappweed Infestation. Jan 31, 2003