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Routes in Wendell Spire

Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castlewood Capers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cobble Wobble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phalloid Void S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Song of the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sub, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Cave Right S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Anderson, Wright, Hanson, 1996
Page Views: 690 total, 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Left of The Sub is the Black Streak (5.13b) and just left of this is a tight corner system that comes out of the cave at the small tree growing in the path. The corner system is Seamless.

At the present writing, the route starts by stepping off the tree into a good finger-tips seam. Swing left out of the corner system onto a clean face with a vanishingly thin seam. Climb the seam on micro-tips and several tiny cobbles adjacent to the seam. Pulling through the top of the seam was originally given a 5.12c rating, however, in contrast to The Sub and Song of the Wood, my inclination is toward 12b. I'll defer the rating to Tod Anderson who snagged the FFA. Power up over a lip near the end of the seam on committing moves and grab the anchor 10 feet above and on the right.

Great stone (for Castlewood), excellent pro, and kinesthetic climbing are worth two stars.

I think everyone who has tried this route has looked for a clean start without using the tree. On 24/11/2001, we were still unable to discover even a difficult bouldering start, so until someone else can solve it without the tree, Seamless has the distinction of being CWCs only "tree start".

Protection

Eight draws and a rope.

Photos

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I think the name for this route is Knappweed Infestation. Jan 31, 2003