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The Black Streak [Edit]
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 6
votes
Routes in Wendell Spire
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Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beak, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Castlewood Capers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cobble Wobble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Phalloid Void S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sidewinder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Song of the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sub, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun Cave Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft |
| FA: | [J. Heiney, 1999, who beat bolters T. Hanson & S. Sills to the redpoint] |
| Page Views: | 4,848 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Mark MacClary on Jan 4, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld restricted March, April, May.
Porkys Wall - restricted March, April, May, June.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld restricted March, April, May.
Porkys Wall - restricted March, April, May, June.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description [Edit]
In my opinion, this is easily one of the top 3 routes at [Castlewood]. It is between The Sub and Seamless.
A jump start followed by some powerful campus moves gets you to the first bolt. Then some technical crimping on small pebbles and slopey little dishes lead to a toss for the big obvious jug. Get a shake, then crank a couple easier moves until you are at the crux. It's a big toss left to a crappy little rock, get your feet on, and you're home free. The top, after the crux, gets rather chossy from the run off, so tread lightly.
Otherwise this is an amazing route, due to the variety of movement, from power down low, to technical in the middle, and a combo of the two will get you through the crux.
A jump start followed by some powerful campus moves gets you to the first bolt. Then some technical crimping on small pebbles and slopey little dishes lead to a toss for the big obvious jug. Get a shake, then crank a couple easier moves until you are at the crux. It's a big toss left to a crappy little rock, get your feet on, and you're home free. The top, after the crux, gets rather chossy from the run off, so tread lightly.
Otherwise this is an amazing route, due to the variety of movement, from power down low, to technical in the middle, and a combo of the two will get you through the crux.
Protection [Edit]
A stick clip is very important for this line, as the first bolt is about 15 feet off the ground and the start goes at around V7. The rest is closely bolted and no worries.
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