Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: [J. Heiney, 1999, who beat bolters T. Hanson & S. Sills to the redpoint]
Page Views: 6,004 total · 32/month
Shared By: Mark MacClary on Jan 4, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

In my opinion, this is easily one of the top 3 routes at Castlewood.

A jump start followed by some powerful campus moves gets you to the first bolt. Then some technical crimping on small pebbles and slopey little dishes lead to a toss for the big obvious jug. Get a shake, then crank a couple easier moves until you are at the crux. It's a big toss left to a crappy little rock, get your feet on, and you're home free. The top, after the crux, gets rather chossy from the run off, so tread lightly.

Otherwise this is an amazing route, due to the variety of movement, from power down low, to technical in the middle, and a combo of the two will get you through the crux.

Protection

A stick clip is very important for this line, as the first bolt is about 15 feet off the ground and the start goes at around V7. The rest is closely bolted and no worries.

Photos