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Routes in Wendell Spire

Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castlewood Capers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cobble Wobble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phalloid Void S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Song of the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sub, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Cave Right S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Anderson, Hanson, Wright, Ziggy, 1992
Page Views: 583 total, 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Sun Cave Direct was one of the first lead routes established in the Eastern canyon. Two hundred feet right of Wendell Spire is an open cave that gets remarkable South/West sun most of the day. Coming off the right side of the cave are two routes that, although converging on the same anchor, are distinct enough in character to merit separate entry. Sun Cave Direct is the left of the two and it runs up on good pockets and large cobbles to a convergence with Sun Cave Right just before a final bulge that will be taken on thin cobbles.

This is a good, pumpy route and different enough from anything at the Spire itself to be worth the burn. Watch the cobbles. With as little traffic as these routes see, there is no telling how well things have held together.

Location

Two hundred feet right of Wendell Spire is an open cave. Coming off the right side of the cave are two routes that converge on the same anchor. This is the left of the two.

Protection

Seven draws and a rope.

Photos

Derekwasiecko
  5.11d
Derekwasiecko  
  5.11d
This is the best 11d in CWC. Jul 5, 2017
kevin jenkins
  5.11d
kevin jenkins  
  5.11d
[Consistently] good climbing. allows for fluid motion throughout the climb if you do some good route planning. i'd advise a bit of tape to strengthen the finger tendons, but otherwise, superb in all measurable ways...happy climbing! Sep 8, 2004