GPS: 39.336, -104.745 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,851 total · 173/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 25, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Wendell Spire is actually a sector of the East Canyon rim. It is demarcated on the right (East) by Wendell Spire, which as Tom Hanson points out is a true "summit", being a 40 foot detached pinacle. Routes have been installed West along the wall for close to 400 feet where a natural break in the wall separates them from the Corporate View Block (and more climbing).

The climbing begins on the Spire proper. The Wendell Spire area is characterized by typical CWC conglomerate stone. However, the rock here is overall much steeper than at any other place in CWC and as such hosts the most difficult climbing at CWC. Most routes are in the 5.11 to 5.12 domain, although one of the best hard lines in CWC, at 5.13b, is present in the Wendell Spire area. A few warm-up routes exist, along with perhaps the easiest bolted line in the Front Range, at 5.6.

Some of the FAs can be well documented in the Wendell Spire area, although much of the FA data are impossible to attribute. The FA crew often worked with several folks on a line at one time. However, the main crew spinning drills included the notorious Mr. Big (aka Tom Hanson), Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, Scott Sills, Mike Lane, and Pat Burwick.

While all of the routes top out between 40 to 60 feet, bring the guns anyway. The climbing is pumpy, difficult, and fun. As a South-facing wall, the Wendell Spire area offers great sun for most of the day. Strictly for convenience and to impose some order on the numbering, I have called Phalloid Void on the spire proper #1, with numbering running right to left. Hopefully this will be fixable when the West limit of this area can be defined.

Getting There

Get to Wendell Spire from the East Canyon Visitor's Center from CO 83. Park at the West paved lot (the furthest lot possible from the Easet), and stroll down through the picnic area to a marked (paved) trail (now labeled "K" on the park map) that takes you down to the creek. Follow the trail across the creek and head downstream (left!/west); pass the phallic block in the trail, and several hundred feet further take small but obvious trail up to the climbing. This will deposit you at the base of Ruse, Wendell Spire is to the right about 100 feet.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wendell Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 70
Phalloid Void
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 25
Prarie Dog
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 24
Icerigger
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 26
Nob Job
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 41
Cobble Wobble
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
The Ruse
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
The Beak
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Sun Cave Direct
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Horizontal Bop
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Triskaidekaphobia
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 27
Cheesedick Soiree
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 33
Song of the Wood
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 29
The Sub
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
The Travesty
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 15
The Black Streak
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Phalloid Void
 70
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Prarie Dog
 25
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Icerigger
 24
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport
Nob Job
 26
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cobble Wobble
 41
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Ruse
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Beak
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sun Cave Direct
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Horizontal Bop
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Triskaidekaphobia
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Cheesedick Soiree
 27
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Song of the Wood
 33
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Sub
 29
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Travesty
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Black Streak
 15
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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