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Routes in Wendell Spire

Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castlewood Capers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cobble Wobble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phalloid Void S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Song of the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sub, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Cave Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Wendell Spire is actually a sector of the East Canyon rim. It is demarcated on the right (East) by Wendell Spire, which as Tom Hanson points out is a true "summit", being a 40 foot detached pinacle. Routes have been installed West along the wall for close to 400 feet where a natural break in the wall separates them from the Corporate View Block (and more climbing).

The climbing begins on the Spire proper. The Wendell Spire area is characterized by typical CWC conglomerate stone. However, the rock here is overall much steeper than at any other place in CWC and as such hosts the most difficult climbing at CWC. Most routes are in the 5.11 to 5.12 domain, although one of the best hard lines in CWC, at 5.13b, is present in the Wendell Spire area. A few warm-up routes exist, along with perhaps the easiest bolted line in the Front Range, at 5.6.

Some of the FAs can be well documented in the Wendell Spire area, although much of the FA data are impossible to attribute. The FA crew often worked with several folks on a line at one time. However, the main crew spinning drills included the notorious Mr. Big (aka Tom Hanson), Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, Scott Sills, Mike Lane, and Pat Burwick.

While all of the routes top out between 40 to 60 feet, bring the guns anyway. The climbing is pumpy, difficult, and fun. As a South-facing wall, the Wendell Spire area offers great sun for most of the day. Strictly for convenience and to impose some order on the numbering, I have called Phalloid Void on the spire proper #1, with numbering running right to left. Hopefully this will be fixable when the West limit of this area can be defined.

Getting There

Get to Wendell Spire from the East Canyon Visitor's Center. Park at the West paved lot, and stroll down through the picnic area to a marked trail that takes you down to the creek. Follow the trail across the creek and head down-stream (left!); pass the phallic block in the trail, and several hundred feet further take small but obvious trial up to the climbing. This will deposit you at the base of Ruse, Wendell Spire is to the right about 100 feet.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wendell Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 36
Phalloid Void
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
Cobble Wobble
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Nob Job
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
The Beak
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Cheesedick Soiree
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Song of the Wood
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 14
The Sub
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
The Black Streak
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Phalloid Void
 36
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cobble Wobble
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Nob Job
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Beak
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cheesedick Soiree
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Song of the Wood
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Sub
 14
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Black Streak
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Wendell Spire »

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Photos

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
See Phalloid Void for a right sector photo and The Beak for a left sector photo. Dec 8, 2001
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Anybody been on Cheesedick Soriee? I was wondering if they could confirm the 12a rating on it. Just wondering what others think of it. I thought it was not that hard. Oct 27, 2003
I came extremely close to getting bitten by a rattler last night. It was right off the main canyon trail near the cutoff to Wendell. This guy was big, and he even snapped at me! Be Careful!!!! Aug 24, 2006
James Cobb
Centennial, CO
James Cobb   Centennial, CO
Hey, was down at Wendell today, and the crack just to the left of the Beak had a cam in it. I have thought this would be a sweet route but never have tried it. I hiked to the top and saw two pipes with caps wedged near the lip of the same crack and some cable connecting them. Was wondering if anyone had any information on an ascent of this crack or what looks to be an "anchor" at the top. Mar 29, 2018

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