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Routes in Wendell Spire

Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castlewood Capers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cobble Wobble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phalloid Void S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Song of the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sub, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Cave Right S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: R. M. Wright, 1995
Page Views: 2,008 total, 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Follow the West-facing corner system of the third buttress left of Wendell Spire. The crux is getting established in the corner system at 15 feet. It has very hard for 5.9.

Protection

Draws and a rope.
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
Sandbagging is more or less the name of the game in Castlewood. With a couple of exceptions, every climb I've done here is sandbagged -- especially so on the bolted climbs, and a lot of the top ropes. May 10, 2013
Jessica Pemble
Yosemite, CA
Jessica Pemble   Yosemite, CA
What an AMAZING route!!! Thanks! Jan 8, 2012
TheSykle
5.10a
TheSykle  
5.10a
Hit this for the first time today.... Couldn't quite make the crux. Friends and several sacrifices of flesh to the Rock Gods lead us to rename it "5.9 my butt". Bottom line, concur with a 10a/b. Will try it with the butt trick discussed. Sep 26, 2009
crisgaret
Castle Rock, CO
crisgaret   Castle Rock, CO
This climb kicked my butt today. I should have read this info before we went out. The weighted butt-cheek would have probably helped a lot. I also agree with the 5.10a.

We will be back.... Sep 26, 2009
Mike, thanks very much for the advice. It worked just like you said. May 24, 2009
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
Bryce, first of all all caps equals shouting.
Anyway, the key beta here is that you backstep with the left foot and thrust your left buttcheek onto the angled ramp thingy. Once you've weighted the buttcheek, you can reposition hands and feet and move on. May 17, 2009
I DON'T KNOW WHAT MY PROBLEM IS I HAVE CLIMBED OTHER ROUTES OF 5.10 ON UP TO 5.11A. I KNOW I AM NOT THE GREATEST CLIMBER BUT THINK I WOULD BE GOOD ENOUGH TO HANDLE THIS ONE. I AM HAVING THE HARDEST TIME GETTING ESTABLISHED IN THE CORNER. ANYONE WHO'S DONE IT THAT HAS ANY TIPS? May 17, 2009
Ben Mottinger    
5.10a
Darrin--my comments were for Bag of Tricks. I think it's hard to confuse the routes since Prairie Dog does not involve the corner or crack at all. May 19, 2003
Darrin Stein
Vancouver, WA
  5.9+
Darrin Stein   Vancouver, WA
  5.9+
There are two routes that are within all the pictures seen here. I believe the one listed is straight up where the rope line is (see pic #1). I could be wrong, but it seems the comments are for the route to the right, which I believe is Prarie Dog. May 18, 2003
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
Ken McVicker   Aurora, CO
I agree the crux is harder. 5.10a is more correct. I spent 4-5 minutes trying different sequences before I convinced myself to commit. It was real sketchy while on lead ove the crux. The good thing is that you have a bolt you can clip above you before heading over the crux. Once past the crux it's an easy stem to the top. Mar 15, 2003
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Fun route with tricky crux. Just figuring out what to do is the toughest part. Once you got it dialed it goes with no problem. Feb 19, 2003
Darin Lang
  5.10a
Darin Lang  
  5.10a
I third that. 10a if you do it just right, harder if you do it wrong (aka My Way). May 28, 2002
I second that. The crux move at the overhang is an awkard, powerful, off-balance layback on a handjam. My vote's on that move being in the 10a range, but maybe that's just because it kicked my ass. Apr 29, 2002
Ben Mottinger    
5.10a
The move to get into the corner seems 10a to me--quite powerful compared to other 9s I've climbed. Nov 18, 2001