Type: Sport
FA: Anderson, Hanson, 1995
Page Views: 1,462 total · 7/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

There are two routes that complete the sector of Wendell Spire just before the boulders on the left. Cheesedick Soiree is the right of these two.

Begin with a hard move right off the deck, or use some funky bypass traverse (cheater's option). A good option is to stick clip the first draw and take the move right off the deck. A line of cobbles and pockets leads to a final crux at 5.12 only 5 feet from the anchor. Crimpy, squarish, and polished this last key hold can be a stopper if you don't chill first because it comes following a complex and fingery section.

This is one of the best routes in this sector.

Protection

Quickdraws and a rope.

Photos

ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Anyone else been on this route? It's my first 12, and I ain't too sure on the rating. Where's the 12a moves? This felt tons easier than other 12s that I've attempted and been spit off. Nice rest ledges to nap on. Feb 19, 2003
Chris Cavallaro
  5.12a
Chris Cavallaro  
  5.12a
I broke a few holds off the start of this route a few years ago, and after getting on it again last night I still think this climb is only 12a. The bottom direct start is harder than the top crux. May 29, 2008
Chris, the photo of you shows that you are on Nob Job, not Cheesedick. The Nobjob starting moves depicted in the photo are more like hard .11 and the upper portion of Non Job is about .10+.

The true starting moves of Cheesedick are stout .12 in my opinion and the last moves to the anchor, which are really cool, are about .11. Jun 5, 2008
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12-
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12-
Just did this route and felt the top crux was 11+, but that the starting moves are at least 12b/c.... Dec 28, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12a
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12a
Direct start felt V3 off the ground. Nice to have the second bolt stick-clipped. Could skip the low crux out left on Nob Job for a good 11d. Bring choss goggles for the top crux! Dec 1, 2018
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
  5.11d
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
  5.11d
Unless you don't pre-clip the first bolt, which you would have to be nuts not too. The crux direct start is on toprope and only feels like 11d. 4 stars for the area I think! Jan 4, 2019