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Routes in Wendell Spire
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Ba Ba Bob Bob Horan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beak, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Castlewood Capers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cobble Wobble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Kronos S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Peter Rubble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Phalloid Void S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sidewinder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Song from the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sub, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun Cave Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Travesty, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Tom Hanson, 1998 |
| Page Views: | 2,687 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Nov 25, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
In using Tom Hanson's guide to this sector, we run out of routes established by 1997 with The Sub (#18). As "the plan" unfolded, eight to ten more routes were established in this sector, and I have used the geographically distinct beak to distinguish the left end of The Wendel Spire area from the Playground, making The Beak roughly route 26, not bad under the circumstances.
The Beak fires up the big dihedral just below the huge beak-like formation on the left perimeter of the area. A cruxy move gains the pale white face on the right which can be run on small cobbles and shallow pockets to a stance just below the chains. A jam and a gaston or even a couple of jams snags the anchor.
It is a good route, has solid stone, and has a cool position are worth a pair of stars. It might be a good idea to get the chains lowered someday. While at the chains, it is obligatory to check out the horizontal, 20 foot trad crack that is just waiting for someone with extra fingers to get a burn, do-able but ugly.
The Beak fires up the big dihedral just below the huge beak-like formation on the left perimeter of the area. A cruxy move gains the pale white face on the right which can be run on small cobbles and shallow pockets to a stance just below the chains. A jam and a gaston or even a couple of jams snags the anchor.
It is a good route, has solid stone, and has a cool position are worth a pair of stars. It might be a good idea to get the chains lowered someday. While at the chains, it is obligatory to check out the horizontal, 20 foot trad crack that is just waiting for someone with extra fingers to get a burn, do-able but ugly.
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