Type: Sport
FA: Tom Hanson, 1998
Page Views: 2,392 total · 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2022 updates Details


In using Tom Hanson's guide to this sector, we run out of routes established by 1997 with The Sub (#18). As "the plan" unfolded, eight to ten more routes were established in this sector, and I have used the geographically distinct beak to distinguish the left end of The Wendel Spire area from the Playground, making The Beak roughly route 26, not bad under the circumstances.

The Beak fires up the big dihedral just below the huge beak-like formation on the left perimeter of the area. A cruxy move gains the pale white face on the right which can be run on small cobbles and shallow pockets to a stance just below the chains. A jam and a gaston or even a couple of jams snags the anchor.

It is a good route, has solid stone, and has a cool position are worth a pair of stars. It might be a good idea to get the chains lowered someday. While at the chains, it is obligatory to check out the horizontal, 20 foot trad crack that is just waiting for someone with extra fingers to get a burn, do-able but ugly.


Eight draws and a rope.