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Routes in Lower Tier

Amazing Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch (a.k.a. Ozone), The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bolt Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracker Ass Cracker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diablo Jam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinosaur S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Earthcling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ozone Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,145 total, 22/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

The only goofy looking crack on the whole face. Climb the diagnoal crack, which is unlike many cracks in that it is comprised of little subpockets within the crack, so you can actally pinch things inside of the crack in addition to jamming.

On a top rope, you will take a substantial swing if you fall on the top portion of this climb, but there's nothing to hit in the swing, except for other climbers.

Protection

Most people top rope this route, but if you're insane, cams and nuts up to 3" A top rope can be set up from the 3 bolts located way to the right on the same rock.
Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
  5.10c
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
  5.10c
Looks like I'll have to go back and properly finish the line based on what people are saying here. We scrambled down to what I assume is the left finish of the crack to set a top rope on two good bolts. ~3 directionals (C4 #0.5, 0.75, 1) would make falls anywhere on the route basically swing-less. I would definitely recommend this setup, since it seems like the anchor far out right people are mentioning would just serve to put you far away from the crack if you fall out during most of the climb? But from what I'm seeing here, it seems like I was simply not at the top of the climb? I did see a single bolt on the face above the anchor I used, but didn't have a belayer to go check it out at the time.

We ended up climbing farther out left up the face to meet up with the crack (somewhere between the start of Stegosaurus and WTF face) when we realized there was a brand new bird's nest with newborn chicks in the pod where I was going to place the lowest directional.

Climb was a ton of fun, mostly 5.9 with a well defined 5.10 crux near the top for me.

Be nice to the birds, people! Nobody wants their front door blocked by a big piece of metal :) May 29, 2017
I did this climd in76 so it was down at least that far back Feb 9, 2017
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
  5.10a
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
  5.10a
The bolt has been replaced with a glue-in, albeit a couple feet higher than the original where the crack actually runs out and the moves get hard. The old manky stud has been removed and the rock patched. Also, the two bolts at the end of Godzilla have been replaced which brings back the opportunity for a fun right finish to the Diagonal Crack. Aug 11, 2014
dgerb  
From the Tresa Black guide book:
"...There is a bolt near the top of the crack for added protection if leading."

Perhaps this is the bolt you guys are talking about? I led diagonal crack expecting to use this bolt for protection. I was sadly disappointed when I found it had been chopped. The bolt chopper didn't even do a good job, as that the hanger was gone, but the bolt was still sticking out.

Little did I know that the top section is completely run out. After a couple of awkward high step and pinch moves, I found that I was faced with a number of unprotectable pockets. I tried to shove a cam into one of them, but it started to cut grooves in the rock when I tugged on it. Realizing that I was screwed, I tried to run it out to the last move, but I had already burned too much energy trying to protect for the last ten minutes. I ended up falling, my gear popped, and I took a 30 foot whipper.

The lack of a bolt to protect the end is quite unfortunate. I feel that it ruins what would otherwise be an awesome trad route. If anybody is interested in fixing the bolt up again, I'm sure climbers at Mt Diablo would appreciate it. I'd be happy help out if you contact me. Dec 5, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
I wasn't aware that their were "ANY" bolts on the diagonal. Perhaps you're thinking of the Dinosaur? Jan 6, 2013
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
  5.10a
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
  5.10a
The first or second bolt (I can't remember) has all but completely pulled out. Looks like someone took a good fall on it.

Edit: the bolt is gone as of oct, 2013 along with some of its neighbors to the left (Godzilla?) Jan 4, 2013
Kyle Townsend
Oakland, CA
5.10c
Kyle Townsend   Oakland, CA
5.10c
This is a stellar crack climb for the bay area. Takes excellent, bomber pro, and has great moves. I felt like it was 10c, but that's only if you traverse right after the second bolt, climbing past a bulge. The finish is a nice hand traverse on slab, really cerebral finish! Gear to 3", many nut placements, opportunities for small TCU placements as well. May 13, 2012
SF2Yosemite
  5.10-
SF2Yosemite  
  5.10-
Nice crack climb. TR'd the lower 2/3 of climb. There are birds or bats that live about halfway up. Seemed empty now but they may be back in the spring.

Very enjoyable laps running up the climd direct and utilizing the alternate start of the left facing flake. Mar 13, 2012
Erwin
  5.10b
Erwin  
  5.10b
I agree with Tony. Feels like mostly "Yosemite 5.9" with a few slightly harder moves. Not 10d, though. Pro was pretty good when you need it. Going left after the 1st bolt is easy but leaves a short, semi-exposed crack between you and safety. I didn't go right, but the anchor is probably better for TR. I led this climb on BD cams .5-1, and purple to red link cams. an extra 2 and 3 would be good if you like lots of gear. The linkies are good on some of the pin scar-like pods. Jun 8, 2009
scalparm
Vienna, Austria
 
scalparm   Vienna, Austria
 
Very nice. Good gear. The top out is disappointing. Solid 10b in my opinion. Apr 29, 2008
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.10d
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.10d
Diagonal Crack is a great route to be sure. I put off trying to lead this as it always looked very intimidating but the climb actually does protect very well. I, too, laced the route with gear mainly because I don't trust the quality of the rock to take a longer fall. Of course by placing so much gear I got very pumped making the last move to the final jug this much " " too hard. I grabbed the jug and fingers just peeled off. I don't know if I missed a placement or didn't have the right gear but I fell about 15' with rope stretch. A good rest and I made it second try. I think this top move is the crux of the climb as it's a very thin move with a long reach. To exit, I ended up traversing the easy way to the left and going to the top with TONS of rope drag.A much more difficult lead than Amazing Face and good crack technique is a must! Jul 25, 2005
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
So I forgot my guidebook this last weekend and decided to lead the Diagnol.

I made a few bad choices that I think I should mention here so that other people dont do the same.

After the third bolt (there are three on the climb, the first two are VERY suspect) the climb either goes left into a dirty 5.6 chimney or traverses right as Tony metioned.

It also looks like you could go straight up. The face is pretty well featured on the steep part as far as you can see. I decided to go up.

After 10 feet of 5.9 or so, the face becomes much less steep. But, there aren't any holds on this part and its mossy and sandy. 15 feet above my last bolt (not as suspect as the last two, but still worrisome), 5 feet from the top, I was stuck and unhappy. After scrubbing moss for 5 minutes and finally getting someone up top to toss down a sling (for me to grab in case my feet started to slide), I did the sandy slab move free. It was probably 10b. But it was scary as hell and I don't recommend anyone going this way on lead unless another bolt is drilled into the top of the face. Oct 11, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
The line is not that bad to protect and not that hard. For most folks the crux will be 10' off the ground and is well protected. SHorter folks might find another crux just below the left-hand finish, going to a big flake/jug.

The climb is easily protected up to the huge arch with no bolts at all. THe huge arch can be slung through with a cordalette, (there are bolts on either side of it for a short TR) and you can finish left (up to an easy chimney) or right on a sloping, loose traverse.

For more spice/difficulty up top, instead of diagonaling left under the final bulge, cut up and right into a steep, narrow, open book (hard, slopey) to add a crux.

I lead the climb on a set of stoppers, cams from 1" to 3.5" and pink, red, and brown tricams. As it was my first lead here and I knew little of the rock quality, I loaded the crack with gear, placing mostly at 5' intervals. Later, a huge # of people TR'd below the gear and eventually hung on or swung on most of the pieces- ALL held that much.

After leading, building an anchor at the big arch by the 2 bolts would be best, then let the follower finish up to the tree- no drag, no swinging in the event that the second falls, and a better place to watch from.

Two stars for this crag, or maybe 3. Keeping in mind the area, I thought the line was almost as good as, but more interesting than Amazing Face.

Mostly 5.9 with a few harder moves. Crack climbing experience is requisite to grade the climb as such. Sep 22, 2003