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Mount Diablo State Park Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 3,838 ft |
| GPS: |
37.8817, -121.9146 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 447,313 total · 1,753/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jun 24, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
This mixed area sits inside of Mt. Diablo State Park southeast of Walnut Creek, and northeast of Danville. Offering a mixed bag of climbing: trad, top rope, and sport routes are all found here. Additionally, there is some bouldering, but not at the major established climbing areas.
Access to the park will cost you up to $10 per car, so heads up. You can check the park website directly for current prices and information.
Most of the climbing is on sandstone, which makes the sport bolts sketchy, and some of the trad routes absolutely terrifying. It also makes for some fun smearing and edging moves everywhere.
Almost all areas have a simple way to set up a toprope, though you should bring really, really long slings (20' +) for many of the anchors.
Access to the park will cost you up to $10 per car, so heads up. You can check the park website directly for current prices and information.
Most of the climbing is on sandstone, which makes the sport bolts sketchy, and some of the trad routes absolutely terrifying. It also makes for some fun smearing and edging moves everywhere.
Almost all areas have a simple way to set up a toprope, though you should bring really, really long slings (20' +) for many of the anchors.
Getting There
Boy Scout Rocks: From the 680 just north of Danville, take exit 40 for El Cerro Blvd and follow that east for about 1 mile. Continue on Diablo Road. After about 2 miles, turn left at Mount Diablo Scenic Blvd, which becomes South Gate Road. Boy Scout Rocks will be on the right. Boy Scout Rocks Map
Pine Canyon: From Walnut Creek, take the Ygnacio Valley Road exit and drive east for about 4 miles. Turn right at Oak Grove Road and continue on Castle Rock Road to its end. Pine Canyon Map
Pine Canyon: From Walnut Creek, take the Ygnacio Valley Road exit and drive east for about 4 miles. Turn right at Oak Grove Road and continue on Castle Rock Road to its end. Pine Canyon Map
Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Diablo State Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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