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Areas in Mount Diablo State Park

Boy Scout Rocks 7 / 7 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Butt Rock 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Chimney Rocks 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pine Canyon 8 / 18 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30
Wanna Get Away Crag 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Elevation: 3,849 ft
GPS: 37.882, -121.915 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 24, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This mixed area sits inside of Mt. Diablo State Park southeast of Walnut Creek, and northeast of Danville. Offering a mixed bag of climbing: trad, top rope, and sport routes are all found here. Additionally, there is some bouldering, but not at the major established climbing areas.

Access to the park will cost you up to $7 per car, so heads up. You can check the park website directly for current prices and information.

Most of the climbing is on sandstone, which makes the sport bolts sketchy, and some of the trad routes absolutely terrifying. It also makes for some fun smearing and edging moves everywhere.

Almost all areas have a simple way to set up a toprope, though you should bring really, really long slings (20' +) for many of the anchors.
Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Getting There

Boy Scout Rocks: From the 680 just north of Danville, take exit 40 for El Cerro Blvd and follow that east for about 1 mile. Continue on Diablo Road. After about 2 miles, turn left at Mount Diablo Scenic Blvd, which becomes South Gate Road. Boy Scout Rocks will be on the right. Boy Scout Rocks Map

Pine Canyon: From Walnut Creek, take the Ygnacio Valley Road exit and drive east for about 4 miles. Turn right at Oak Grove Road and continue on Castle Rock Road to its end. Pine Canyon Map

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Diablo State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cave Route
Sport 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
The Pillar
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry December
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chouinard's Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Amazing Face
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Yabba Dabba Dudes
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Zenith
Sport, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evolution
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone)
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diagonal Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Proboscis
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boromir
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt Route
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deliverance
Sport
Cave Route Pine Canyon > Rock of Ages 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport 2 pitches
The Pillar Pine Canyon > Pagoda Rock 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Dry December Pine Canyon > Pagoda Rock 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
West Face Pine Canyon > Rock of Ages 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Chouinard's Crack Boy Scout Rocks > Upper Tier 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Amazing Face Boy Scout Rocks > Lower Tier 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Yabba Dabba Dudes Pine Canyon > Flintstone Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport, TR
Blue Zenith Pine Canyon > Pagoda Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Evolution Pine Canyon > Rock of Ages 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone) Boy Scout Rocks > Lower Tier 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Diagonal Crack Boy Scout Rocks > Lower Tier 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Proboscis Pine Canyon > Mammoth Rock 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Boromir Pine Canyon > Mammoth Rock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bolt Route Boy Scout Rocks > Lower Tier 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Deliverance Pine Canyon > Deliverance Rock 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount Diablo State Park »

Weather Averages

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Please do not climb in this area if it has rained in the past 3 days. Not only does it damage the rock but it's very dangerous as the sandstone crumbles easily when wet. I thought most people knew this, but I saw several people climbing today even though it had rained heavily the night before. Nov 28, 2016
Hey left some quickdraws on the "west face/evolution" route on the Rock of Ages. If anyone happens to grab them, I'd be happy to pick them up anywhere in the bay. Thanks@!!!!! Sep 29, 2016
Anyone climbing today that wants to show me the ropes at mt Diablo? Send me a message. Jul 31, 2016
Park now costs $10 per car or $9 for seniors so bring your grandma! Oct 4, 2012
There is soo much potential here if you don't mind finding the good rock among the bad. It's like the ugly cousin of red rocks. If this place gets more developed it will need a guidebook of its own. A fun adventure!
Aug 11, 2012
Chris Barker
Denver, CO
Chris Barker   Denver, CO
State park entrance fees have increased to $10. Bring your loot people! May 13, 2010

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