Elevation: 3,838 ft
GPS: 37.8817, -121.9146
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 447,313 total · 1,781/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 24, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

This mixed area sits inside of Mt. Diablo State Park southeast of Walnut Creek, and northeast of Danville. Offering a mixed bag of climbing: trad, top rope, and sport routes are all found here. Additionally, there is some bouldering, but not at the major established climbing areas.

Access to the park will cost you up to $10 per car, so heads up. You can check the park website directly for current prices and information.

Most of the climbing is on sandstone, which makes the sport bolts sketchy, and some of the trad routes absolutely terrifying. It also makes for some fun smearing and edging moves everywhere.

Almost all areas have a simple way to set up a toprope, though you should bring really, really long slings (20' +) for many of the anchors.

Getting There

Boy Scout Rocks: From the 680 just north of Danville, take exit 40 for El Cerro Blvd and follow that east for about 1 mile. Continue on Diablo Road. After about 2 miles, turn left at Mount Diablo Scenic Blvd, which becomes South Gate Road. Boy Scout Rocks will be on the right. Boy Scout Rocks Map

Pine Canyon: From Walnut Creek, take the Ygnacio Valley Road exit and drive east for about 4 miles. Turn right at Oak Grove Road and continue on Castle Rock Road to its end. Pine Canyon Map

88 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Diablo State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 119
Cave Route
Sport 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 80
The Pillar
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 80
Dry December
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
West Face
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 56
Chouinard's Crack
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 49
Blue Zenith
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 356
Amazing Face
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 46
Yabba Dabba Dudes
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 54
Evolution
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 84
Ozone (a.k.a.) The Arch
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 64
Diagonal Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 24
Redneck Rampage
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Boromir
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 122
Bolt Route
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 20
Deliverance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cave Route Pine Canyon > Rock of Ages
 119
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport 2 pitches
The Pillar Pine Canyon > Pagoda Rock
 80
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Dry December Pine Canyon > Pagoda Rock
 80
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
West Face Pine Canyon > Rock of Ages
 49
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Chouinard's Crack Boy Scout Rocks > Upper Tier
 56
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Blue Zenith Pine Canyon > Pagoda Rock
 49
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Amazing Face Boy Scout Rocks > Lower Tier
 356
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Yabba Dabba Dudes Pine Canyon > Flintstone Rock
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport, TR
Evolution Pine Canyon > Rock of Ages
 54
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Ozone (a.k.a.) The Arch Boy Scout Rocks > Lower Tier
 84
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Diagonal Crack Boy Scout Rocks > Lower Tier
 64
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Redneck Rampage Pine Canyon > Terra Dome
 24
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Boromir Pine Canyon > Mammoth Rock
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bolt Route Boy Scout Rocks > Lower Tier
 122
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Deliverance Pine Canyon > Deliverance Rock
 20
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount Diablo State Park »

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