Elevation: 1,575 ft
GPS: 37.847, -121.927 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 115,001 total · 495/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 24, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details
Access Issue: Covid-19 Closures! Details

Description

The Lower Tier offers sport routes, trad routes and top ropes all exist on this lower section of climbing. Because of the fragile nature of this rock, bring long slings for topropes (20'+), don't climb this area for at least 3 days after a rain storm, and be careful of loose bolts and anchors, as many of them cannot withstand too many serious falls. Amazing Face (5.9) and Ozone (5.10c) are area classics.

The Middle Tier is almost all top rope climbs, though there is a few cracks that could be done trad as well. Look for coldshuts on the top of the rock, which can be easily accessed from the far side (south) of the rock. Have a go at Jungle Book (5.10b) and In the Buckets (5.11c).

The Upper Tier is a tall piece of sandstone about 90 feet tall 100 feet across. Most of the routes are top rope due to the fact that it is unsafe to put bolts on the sandstone face. To reach the top from below, trek up the 3rd class gully on the left side of the rock. Usually you'll set your anchor from a tree, though old bolts are present at the top of the right-most climbs. The obvious crack in the middle of the rock is known as Chouinard's Crack (5.9) and serves as an easy reference.

Butt Rock offers a variety of climbing from moderate slabby face climbing to steep face and finger crack climbing. Routes can be toproped using very long slings. A long 5.3 chimney on the south side is the easiest way to the top. A short rappel off the west face is the best way down. Butt Rock is about 100' north of Boy Scout Rocks and there is an easy 2 minutes approach trail leading down from the road. Looking down you can see the rock identified with several large boulders on top.

Getting There

Approach time: 11 minutes.

Be aware of lots of poison oak in the area.

To get to the Boy Scout Rocks, head into the park from either entrance, though the south entrance is a little closer. Park at the Rock City picnic area, and head south road on foot. A little ways down (150 yards or so) you will see a large rock (60'+) on the right with an obvious large crack in the middle, and a CLOSED climbing area. Don't climb this rock, or other areas in the park will be endangered as well.

Instead, hang a left downhill on a trail a little past this rock. There are several trails, most are infested with poison oak, so beware. One steeper trail that is LESS infected is found by locating the top of the rock, which is a little downhill from other paths. It is also located just to the left of the top of the upper tier, which stands about 15 feet tall next to the road. Follow this steep windy trail down about 50 yards, and you will be standing in the corridor between the upper tier (uphill) and the middle tier (downhill). Head downhill another corridor, and you'll be in the corridor between the middle tier and the lower tier. Head a little further down, and you'll be on the ground floor with the lower tier on your right.

The ground floor is where most of the lower tier established climbing lies, though there are also a few routes on the north side of the rock.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Boy Scout Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 51
Chouinard's Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 316
Amazing Face
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Jungle Book
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 77
The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone)
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 60
Diagonal Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 22
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 27
The Route Formerly Known as Face
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Lame Squeeze Job
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Pebbly Face
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
 24
Ozone Direct
Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Earthcling
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
[Redacted]
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Stegasaurus
Sport, TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 114
Bolt Route
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 14
In the Buckets
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chouinard's Crack Upper Tier
 51
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Amazing Face Lower Tier
 316
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jungle Book Middle Tier
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone) Lower Tier
 77
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Diagonal Crack Lower Tier
 60
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete Middle Tier
 22
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
The Route Formerly Known as… Upper Tier
 27
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Lame Squeeze Job Lower Tier
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Pebbly Face Upper Tier
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Ozone Direct Lower Tier
 24
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X Trad, TR
Earthcling Lower Tier
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
[Redacted] Lower Tier
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Stegasaurus Lower Tier
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Bolt Route Lower Tier
 114
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
In the Buckets Middle Tier
 14
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a TR
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