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Areas in Boy Scout Rocks

Lower Tier 3 / 4 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Middle Tier 2 / 3 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Upper Tier 2 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 1,575 ft
GPS: 37.847, -121.927 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 55,352 total · 283/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 24, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

The Lower Tier offers sport routes, trad routes and top ropes all exist on this lower section of climbing. Because of the fragile nature of this rock, bring long slings for topropes (20'+), don't climb this area for at least 3 days after a rain storm, and be careful of loose bolts and anchors, as many of them cannot withstand too many serious falls. Amazing Face (5.9) and Ozone (5.10c) are area classics.

The Middle Tier is almost all top rope climbs, though there is a few cracks that could be done trad as well. Look for coldshuts on the top of the rock, which can be easily accessed from the far side (south) of the rock. Have a go at Jungle Book (5.10b) and In the Buckets (5.11c).

The Upper Tier is a tall piece of sandstone about 90 feet tall 100 feet across. Most of the routes are top rope due to the fact that it is unsafe to put bolts on the sandstone face. To reach the top from below, trek up the 3rd class gully on the left side of the rock. Usually you'll set your anchor from a tree, though old bolts are present at the top of the right-most climbs. The obvious crack in the middle of the rock is known as Chouinard's Crack (5.9) and serves as an easy reference.

Butt Rock offers a variety of climbing from moderate slabby face climbing to steep face and finger crack climbing. Routes can be toproped using very long slings. A long 5.3 chimney on the south side is the easiest way to the top. A short rappel off the west face is the best way down. Butt Rock is about 100' north of Boy Scout Rocks and there is an easy 2 minutes approach trail leading down from the road. Looking down you can see the rock identified with several large boulders on top.

Getting There

Approach time: 11 minutes.

Be aware of lots of poison oak in the area.

To get to the Boy Scout Rocks, head into the park from either entrance, though the south entrance is a little closer. Park at the Rock City picnic area, and head south road on foot. A little ways down (150 yards or so) you will see a large rock (60'+) on the right with an obvious large crack in the middle, and a CLOSED climbing area. Don't climb this rock, or other areas in the park will be endangered as well.

Instead, hang a left downhill on a trail a little past this rock. There are several trails, most are infested with poison oak, so beware. One steeper trail that is LESS infected is found by locating the top of the rock, which is a little downhill from other paths. It is also located just to the left of the top of the upper tier, which stands about 15 feet tall next to the road. Follow this steep windy trail down about 50 yards, and you will be standing in the corridor between the upper tier (uphill) and the middle tier (downhill). Head downhill another corridor, and you'll be in the corridor between the middle tier and the lower tier. Head a little further down, and you'll be on the ground floor with the lower tier on your right.

The ground floor is where most of the lower tier established climbing lies, though there are also a few routes on the north side of the rock.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Boy Scout Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Chouinard's Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 229
Amazing Face
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Jungle Book
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone)
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 41
Diagonal Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
5.10 Face
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
 16
Ozone Direct
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Two in One
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Cracker Ass Cracker
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Earthcling
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 81
Bolt Route
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 8
In the Buckets
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 9
Dinosaur
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chouinard's Crack Upper Tier
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Amazing Face Lower Tier
 229
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jungle Book Middle Tier
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone) Lower Tier
 59
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Diagonal Crack Lower Tier
 41
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete Middle Tier
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
5.10 Face Upper Tier
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Ozone Direct Lower Tier
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X Trad, TR
Two in One Middle Tier
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Cracker Ass Cracker Lower Tier
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Earthcling Lower Tier
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bolt Route Lower Tier
 81
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
In the Buckets Middle Tier
 8
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a TR
Dinosaur Lower Tier
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Sport
More Classic Climbs in Boy Scout Rocks »

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Photos

I recently found out that there's a much easier trail to get to the rock.Instead of following the road back towards the south/west entrance and then going down the poison oak infested and steep downhill trail,go across the road from the parking area to the picnic area (but still veer towards the direction you would have headed on the road).You'll find a nice, even trail that heads directly below the lowest tier of boyscout rocks. Aug 31, 2002
Be Aware: Loose Bolts !!!
"Face" / "Chouniard's Crack" (Upper tier)
Middle tier - middle bolts above face opposite U.T.
Lower tier above face to left of "Chimney" Mar 11, 2012
Anoymous Coward is correct from the parking lot follow the trail through time back (to the east) along the creek to the bottom tier. From the trail you can walk right up to the nice big flat spot at the bottom of the Lower Tier (right to the Amazing Face). From there it's easy to access all the other tiers. Mar 16, 2012
On Tuesday 5/15/2018 I found a couple of older-looking Mad Rock quickdraws on the ground near the lower tier.
Message me if they're yours and I'll get them back to you. May 16, 2018

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