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Routes in Pagoda Rock

Blue Zenith S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry December T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pillar, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsung War, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: F.A Bo Johnston, Anthony Bilotti (1990) F.F.A Chad Suchoski (2006)
Page Views: 4,808 total, 36/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Oct 10, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

This route starts about 40 ft to the left of the Pillar and goes between a break in the canopy of two trees, then up the steep central face of the Pagoda. There are anchors at 100 ft but the route continues to the top and can easily be done in one pitch. Pockets, crimps, mantles and route finding is the name of the game on this one. Going strait up is not always the easiest way to the next bolt. You can easily make this route much harder than the grade. The crux comes just off the belay anchors on the second pitch. A few moves later and you're back in the more moderate range. The first pitch is 5.7 and can be toproped from the anchors with a 60m rope. Though this route has been around for more than 15 years, it was just recently bolted in the summer of 06 and could use a little trafic to clean it up.

Location

Decend by rappelling the route (huge potential for getting your rope stuck)or make a short rap down the back side on chain anchors.

Protection

13 Quickdraws
Watch Out for Loose Rock!!

I was climbing this route on Sunday November 13th and a foot long long hold I was holding onto completely fell off. I whipped 20 feet and slammed into my left heel. Broke my heel in 4 places and am now out of commission for 3 months.

Never climbing sandstone again! Only Yosemite Granite for me:) Nov 15, 2016
Love this climb! One of my favorites in Pine Canyon. Everything is as put in the description. Lots of feet, lots of hands. IF you're new to climbing or climbing on sandstone, please be gentle. Knock before pulling down or stepping on holds; if it sounds hollow don't use it. There are tons of other options to help avoid those on this route.

We did it in a single pitch with a 70m rope, & rapped off the chains on the back of the rock. Aug 8, 2016
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
That's unfortunate. The shade from those trees was the only thing keeping the poison oak at bay and keeping your ropes out of it when throwing them down. Feb 7, 2015
Phil McAllister  
  5.9
The trees have recently been hacked down on the back side of this climb - and having had quite a bit of traffic of late (even since the first time i climbed in a few years back) a lot of the choss has been cleaned up. Jan 25, 2015
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Such is the nature of Pine Canyon. You have to familiarize yourself with the nature of the rock before you feel solid on it. It's choss, but great climbing none the less. Not everything out there is that bad. Don't give up just yet, keep climbing out there and you'll get the hang of it soon enough.

Pine Canyon is an place to find adventure, not contrived safety and a day of mindless climbing. It's a great place to become strong in mind, as well as strong in body.

Think of the place as a "great gift" to the bay area. Apr 12, 2009
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
Looked like a good line up the face of The Pagoda, but... The climbing totally sketched me out as I pulled holds off and the sandstone crumbled beneath my feet. Even being careful with loose holds it worried me...

It is a nice line up the face and was fun for my partner on top belay.

Watch out for poison oak at the start!

Don't throw your rope in the poison oak when rapping off the back! Mar 24, 2009