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Routes in The Rock of Ages

Cave Route S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Evolution S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bolt Route TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 155 ft
FA: Chad Suchoski
Page Views: 3,538 total, 26/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

Starts 40 ft to the right of the Cave Route and shares the first five bolts with the West Face route. At the first cave, go left and continue up past a bolt and into a larger cave. From here, go out left (through a short crux) up a steep headwall. Continue strait up what seems to be a never ending wall. Nearly every bolt has a good stacne/rest where you clip it followed by sustained moves up holds that are hard to see. Searching around a bit before you commit to the next move usually produces a better hold or foot on this one. The topout's a bit spicy until you find the right holds (hint; go right!). A two bolt anchor awaits at the top. This route is 155 ft long almost exactly, so you need at least a 55m rope. You can break the route into two pitches by belaying from the anchors in the lower cave. Raptors use these caves for nesting every year so stay off these routes from Feb 1st throuth June 30th.

Location

Walk off the backside from the top.

Protection

15 Quickdraws, Runners usefull.

Photos

matthoffman  
 
Pretty cruising line, nothing too tricky. Took an exciting little whipper when a hand-sized hold broke off, so expect the unexpected. Dec 18, 2016
Hey left some quickdraws on the "west face/evolution" route on the Rock of Ages. If anyone happens to grab them, I'd be happy to pick them up anywhere in the bay. Thanks@!!!!! Sep 29, 2016
Kevin Clark 1
Oakland
  5.10a/b
Kevin Clark 1   Oakland
  5.10a/b
Had a blast on this route. I found that coming out of the cave, where the first belay point is located, was a little spicy, and right as I was getting ready to top out became spicy as well. The whole route is a gem. Aug 27, 2016
Jes C.
San Francisco, CA
 
Jes C.   San Francisco, CA
 
If you're going to hang out and do the routes on this wall, I'd recommend setting a rappel on Red Face and using it to get back down after topping out the other climbs on the wall. Its a great way to avoid the nasty scramble down the shoot at the back, especially if you approach from the ridge.

Wouldn't recommend the climb (Red Face) itself though- pulled a fist sized chunk out a seemingly innocuous hueco. Wear helmets. Oct 7, 2015
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, California
  5.10b
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, California
  5.10b
The anchor bolts seem to be in a slightly awkward place. There's not a great spot to belay from, and walking off from there would be sketchy (it's easy but super exposed).

Using them as a directional and belaying from West Face's anchor seems like a better option. Aug 23, 2015
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Along the Pacific Palisades on Table Rock situated in Robert Lewis Stevenson park just across the street from Mt St.Helena.

Google that and you'll find it.

1.5 Mi approach, 50+ routes up to 4 pitches. All well bolted. An open mind as to what constitutes rock is a must. Sep 3, 2012
Where is Aloha Patrol and DTSA? Aug 31, 2012
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
I lead Aloha Patrol with a 70m rope in 1 pitch. Rope stretcher for sure. I think its 231 ft tops ;) Still, I cant think of anything that's longer than that in the area. Maybe the route I put up next to it (actually first climbed by Steve Roper on aid in the late 50's) due to all the traversing, ha!

Either way, Evolution is not the longest in the Bay Area. It's 155 ft exactly. Yes, I actually measured it. Aug 28, 2012
Rough  
Not even close. Aloha Patrol at DTSA is a lot longer (~250') Aug 25, 2012
Looks good, may be the longest route in the bay area? Aug 24, 2012
aa-lex  
The anchor bolts are at the top directly above the last bolt. You can't really see them cuz they're over the edge of a ledge. I thought that the anchors I needed to get to were the anchors for the next route over because when I was at the top those were the only ones I noticed, so I went around the back of the hump/high point of the rock via going left after the last bolt...either way it worked, but the real anchor bolts are directly above the last bolt. Just a heads up... most people will probably figure it out fine, I just had my head up my #$&. Anyway, the climb was really fun! It has many bolts (15 + 2 at the anchors) so you better have a lot of draws...I had to back clean a couple. The route probably needs a little more traffic to get cleaned up. I knocked a fair amount of that lovely loose sandstone off. Hope this helps! Oct 8, 2007