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5.10b, Sport, 155 ft (47 m),  Avg: 3 from 60 votes
FA: Chad Suchoski
California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > Mt Diablo SP > Pine Canyon > Rock of Ages
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock DetailsDrop down


Starts 40 ft to the right of the Cave Route and shares the first five bolts with the West Face route. At the first cave, go left and continue up past a bolt and into a larger cave. From here, go out left (through a short crux) up a steep headwall. Continue strait up what seems to be a never ending wall. Nearly every bolt has a good stacne/rest where you clip it followed by sustained moves up holds that are hard to see. Searching around a bit before you commit to the next move usually produces a better hold or foot on this one. The topout's a bit spicy until you find the right holds (hint; go right!). A two bolt anchor awaits at the top. This route is 155 ft long almost exactly, so you need at least a 55m rope. You can break the route into two pitches by belaying from the anchors in the lower cave. Raptors use these caves for nesting every year so stay off these routes from Feb 1st throuth June 30th.


Walk off the backside from the top.


15 Quickdraws, Runners usefull.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dimitri climbs Evolution 5.10b/c on Rock of Ages, Pine Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Dimitri climbs Evolution 5.10b/c on Rock of Ages, Pine Canyon.
Dimitri climbs Evolution 5.10b/c.
[Hide Photo] Dimitri climbs Evolution 5.10b/c.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The anchor bolts are at the top directly above the last bolt. You can't really see them cuz they're over the edge of a ledge. I thought that the anchors I needed to get to were the anchors for the next route over because when I was at the top those were the only ones I noticed, so I went around the back of the hump/high point of the rock via going left after the last bolt...either way it worked, but the real anchor bolts are directly above the last bolt. Just a heads up... most people will probably figure it out fine, I just had my head up my #$&. Anyway, the climb was really fun! It has many bolts (15 + 2 at the anchors) so you better have a lot of draws...I had to back clean a couple. The route probably needs a little more traffic to get cleaned up. I knocked a fair amount of that lovely loose sandstone off. Hope this helps! Oct 8, 2007
Ryan Crochiere
Fairfax, CA
[Hide Comment] Looks good, may be the longest route in the bay area? Aug 24, 2012
[Hide Comment] Not even close. Aloha Patrol at DTSA is a lot longer (~250') Aug 25, 2012
Salamanizer Ski
Off the Grid…
[Hide Comment] I lead Aloha Patrol with a 70m rope in 1 pitch. Rope stretcher for sure. I think its 231 ft tops ;) Still, I cant think of anything that's longer than that in the area. Maybe the route I put up next to it (actually first climbed by Steve Roper on aid in the late 50's) due to all the traversing, ha!

Either way, Evolution is not the longest in the Bay Area. It's 155 ft exactly. Yes, I actually measured it. Aug 28, 2012
[Hide Comment] Where is Aloha Patrol and DTSA? Aug 31, 2012
Salamanizer Ski
Off the Grid…
[Hide Comment] Along the Pacific Palisades on Table Rock situated in Robert Lewis Stevenson park just across the street from Mt St.Helena.

Google that and you'll find it.

1.5 Mi approach, 50+ routes up to 4 pitches. All well bolted. An open mind as to what constitutes rock is a must. Sep 3, 2012
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
[Hide Comment] The anchor bolts seem to be in a slightly awkward place. There's not a great spot to belay from, and walking off from there would be sketchy (it's easy but super exposed).

Using them as a directional and belaying from West Face's anchor seems like a better option. Aug 23, 2015
Jes C
San Francisco, CA
[Hide Comment] If you're going to hang out and do the routes on this wall, I'd recommend setting a rappel on Red Face and using it to get back down after topping out the other climbs on the wall. Its a great way to avoid the nasty scramble down the shoot at the back, especially if you approach from the ridge.

Wouldn't recommend the climb (Red Face) itself though- pulled a fist sized chunk out a seemingly innocuous hueco. Wear helmets. Oct 7, 2015
Kevin Clark 1
[Hide Comment] Had a blast on this route. I found that coming out of the cave, where the first belay point is located, was a little spicy, and right as I was getting ready to top out became spicy as well. The whole route is a gem. Aug 27, 2016
aaron freifeld
Bishop, ca
[Hide Comment] Hey left some quickdraws on the "west face/evolution" route on the Rock of Ages. If anyone happens to grab them, I'd be happy to pick them up anywhere in the bay. Thanks@!!!!! Sep 29, 2016
matt hoffman
[Hide Comment] Pretty cruising line, nothing too tricky. Took an exciting little whipper when a hand-sized hold broke off, so expect the unexpected. Dec 18, 2016
[Hide Comment] Do it in one pitch with 15 draws plus anchor material, 16 if you want to clip the Evolution anchor and use the West Face anchor as mentioned above. Great route. Nov 16, 2019
roy r
[Hide Comment] The first bolt on Evolution/West Face is getting loose! Might hold a sheer force but not an outward pull. Just my opinion. Hopefully BACC can replace it soon. Sep 6, 2020
Ruben Kogel
San Francisco, CA
[Hide Comment] Climbed this by mistake, after exiting the cave from the left. Bolt 5 or 6 after the cave is loose and both of the anchor bolts are loose, so better set a redirect and top up at the anchors from West Face, directly to the right. Otherwise, fun face climbing, although I would have enjoyed it more had I prepared mentally for a 10b and not a 5.8. Everyone got home safe and sound. Live and learn. Sep 4, 2023