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Yabba Dabba Dudes
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 2.8 from 33
votes
Routes in Flintstone Rock
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Oona Kuma S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oona Kuma Direct S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Pigeon Tunnel TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quarry, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yabba Dabba Dudes S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 70 ft |
| FA: | Norman Boles, John Gatti 1991 |
| Page Views: | 4,029 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Aug 18, 2001 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked hereparks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
This climb ascends the only bolts on the face of Flintstone rock, heading up and left the right side of the south face.
Climbing is sketchy and scary, so this is probably not a good project for your first .10 lead. Additionally, climbing faces south, so on a hot summer day the rock will soften even more, and your hands will ooze with sweat. But, the climb is great, the seemingly blank face will make its pockety grips appear as you head up the slabby route.
The lowest bolt is about 20 feet off the ground, and well after the crux of the route, so either stick clip the first bolt, or hang on and climb through. Many of the holds and bolts on this route will not hold your weight independently. A fall before the first bolt will send you off the rock and after an unpleasant uneven bounce into the sharp thorny bushes surrounding the base of this rock, which would really not be a fun experience.
Climbing is sketchy and scary, so this is probably not a good project for your first .10 lead. Additionally, climbing faces south, so on a hot summer day the rock will soften even more, and your hands will ooze with sweat. But, the climb is great, the seemingly blank face will make its pockety grips appear as you head up the slabby route.
The lowest bolt is about 20 feet off the ground, and well after the crux of the route, so either stick clip the first bolt, or hang on and climb through. Many of the holds and bolts on this route will not hold your weight independently. A fall before the first bolt will send you off the rock and after an unpleasant uneven bounce into the sharp thorny bushes surrounding the base of this rock, which would really not be a fun experience.
Protection
Seven bolts to a 1 bolt top anchor. Lowering off of this bolt is really not a good idea, just walk off the top.
To set up a top anchor, bring a long sling (30') and use the rocks and trees behind the route just right of the outlet of the pidgeon tunnel (5.8), these rocks and trees can be accessed following a trail through the trees and shrubs on the top of the right side of the rock.
To set up a top anchor, bring a long sling (30') and use the rocks and trees behind the route just right of the outlet of the pidgeon tunnel (5.8), these rocks and trees can be accessed following a trail through the trees and shrubs on the top of the right side of the rock.
Alameda
Alameda, CA
A few things:
1. The first bolt as already stated is 20 feet off the ground. A fall before that could be bad.
Would be nice to have a bolt at 10 ft level too , hence making the route safe and enjoyable. Getting to the first bolt is bit dicey , be careful. Stay to the right initially.
2. The rock is sandy and so footholds tend to slip.
3. There is a thin crux just before the 3rd bolt , but now you have 2 bolts below you so not to worry. The bolts seemed to be in good shape. The first bolt hanger was shaky though.
4. I too could not find any bolt on the top. Had to sling the huge boulder on the top for top anchor.
A scary lead on the whole ..... Apr 25, 2006
Vacaville Ca.
Safe and enjoyable? Sense when is climbing safe? And what does "safe" have to do with enjoyable? That route was probably put up on lead. If not it was certainly put up in a more traditional style. That's the unique nature of Pine Canyon. Love it or leave it. Just don't retro bolt it. Jun 22, 2006
norman Jun 21, 2007
Vacaville Ca.
My intention was never to put any bolt , i know its always a contreversial topic ... but I just felt that the first 20 feet was the most unprotected part of the climb hence that was just a suggestion from a beginner climber (ie me :-) )
And ya , now that I have shifted to the east coast (Atlanta) , i truely realize the imprtance of having such a wonderful area (Pine canyon) so near to our home.
Enjoy climbing ... Dec 25, 2007
NorCal
Vacaville Ca.
It's been TR'd. About 5 or 6 years ago there was some effort to work out a route that went directly out the big cave. The rock was deemed too soft for anything practical, but several different lines were TR'd on the upper headwall for fun. Aug 20, 2010
Vacaville Ca.
Do you know what kind of bolts they used. Exact dimensions would be great. Nothing less than 6" glue ins or Powers 1/2" X 3 3/4 sleeve bolts should be acceptable. If you would find out what these guys put in the rock that would do wonders for my piece of mind.
I've sunk a lot of bolts in that stone and I'm well aware of what will work and what absolutely will not through some bit of trial and error. If you could ask what kind of hardware they used, that would be great. I have 1/2 X 4 3/4 powers bolts if they used something sketch. I'd be willing to donate to the cause. Sep 4, 2011
mountainproject.com/v/the-q… May 31, 2012
Martinez, CA
Oakland, CA