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Areas in Wanna Get Away Crag

North Lump 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Samland 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
South Lump 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 1,800 ft
GPS: 37.843, -121.898 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,203 total · 201/month
Shared By: Kelley Gilleran on Dec 10, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Shady secluded northeast facing soft sandstone crag developed by Jim Thornburg, Steve Temple, Samuel Crossley, and Dave Stallard.
Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Getting There

From the south entrance to the park go past Rock City and go uphill to the large Curry Point turnout parking area. 2.5 mi. hike/ride to the crag on a fire road. When confronted with a fork stay right, left, then right (downhill) to where the road flattens and look for a trail on the right. Follow the trail till the crag comes into view. Approach from the left just before the trail meets the cliff. Costs $10 to park.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wanna Get Away Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stemple Slab
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Samland
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Hour
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wanna Get Away
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Don't Stress
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stemple Slab S Lump 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Samland Samland 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Happy Hour N Lump 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wanna Get Away N Lump 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Don't Stress N Lump 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
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Burlen Loring
Albany, CA
Burlen Loring   Albany, CA
Some fun climbs here but the place is a choss fest. rock is pretty unstable, micro crimps exfoliate when pulled on, harder rock comprised of coarse sand matrix grinds down under foot. some of the routes are relatively clean others may never be. Apr 2, 2017
grabski
N California
grabski   N California
Keep an eye out for poison oak on the last section of single-track trail. Don't let it scare you off, because there are some fun slab climbs here. But be prepared to weave around some p-oak branches leaning into the trail.

Thanks to the crew for developing the area. It's fun getting back there and feeling like there's no one around (because there isn't!). Jun 24, 2016

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