Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 26,712 total · 106/month
Shared By: Katie Purtill on Jun 22, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

By far the most-wanted route in the area, some weekends there are parties lined up for it all day. Start by climbing to, and using, the big holes. The moves here can be equal parts powerful and awkward. After exiting the second hole, delicately balance your way up the amazingest goshdarn face. Towards the top, the holds become slope-y, and thoughtful beta is required.

P.S. The belayer gets two points for dropping a falling climber into either of the man-eating holes at the bottom of the route.

Protection

Ten glue-in bolts (2020) lead to a bolted anchor (three chains, each with its own mussy hook).

Another anchor exists on top to allow climbers to safely rappel to the lower chains for top roping. Please use the lower chain anchor for top-roping and lowering to stop the rope scarring and the grooves left behind in the soft rock.

Please use your own gear for top roping off the chains to minimize wear on the expensive fixed gear, and NEVER thread a rope through the eye of a glue in bolt for any reason but an unavoidable emergency.

Location

Immediately identifiable by the two big holes that you climb into at the start.

Photos