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Routes in Lower Tier

Amazing Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch (a.k.a. Ozone), The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bolt Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracker Ass Cracker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diablo Jam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinosaur S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Earthcling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ozone Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Whoever you are, I'll buy you a beer
Page Views: 7,208 total, 38/month
Shared By: Katie Purtill on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

On the east face of the Lower Tier, immediately right of the route with two giant holes at the bottom. Very pumpy and unrelenting but no move is harder than about 5.10d. There are cruxy moves at the top and bottom of the climb, and knowing which holds to use is key. Trust your feet and be patient.

Protection

There are 14 bolts, with chain anchors at the top.

Photos

Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
  5.11b/c
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
  5.11b/c
The thinner, older brother of Amazing Face. To set up a top rope, do an ultra-short rap from the anchors on the top of the cliff to get to the bolt route's anchors.

Some silly 5.11 moves past the first bolt get you into super fun 5.10 slab with cool movement and feet just small enough for most stances to not offer real rest. Beta alert: At the top there is a way around the final 5.11 crux if you don't go straight up.

The starting moves to me were of comparable difficulty to Egghead, a known stout 5.11b area classic at Mickey's. If you don't use the manufactured mono at the start, it's *at least* 5.11c/d. I would not argue with the new Bay Area guidebook's rating of 5.11c, relative to other local climbs.

This climb would get 4 stars from me if there were fewer bolts (nobody's fault of course, since it was originally an aid ladder) and a less silly start, but still one of my new favorite climbs in the area! May 29, 2017
Alec Sluser
Concord CA
Alec Sluser   Concord CA
Solo Aided it with aid ladders. Straight foward, the first bolt just posed a reachy problem for me. I wrote a trip report for the climb! Mar 19, 2017
I climbed this line of bolts in 76 so been free climbed at least that long Feb 9, 2017
I remember this route being rated 10d (b?) in the '70's and it definitely had more, sharper, positive holds for both hands and feet. I was a better climber back then, but I am sure some holds have broken and most have eroded to a less positive feel. I failed (flailed) this time, and another tall and strong guy failed and another young gun failed as well. I think 11c or harder? Oct 24, 2016
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
I was unable to do the start. The primary issue was my feet kept popping off because the footholds were dirty and slightly wet. I would bring a brush to clean some of the feet near the bottom. The start seemed harder than 11a. If you're tall you can clip the first bolt by standing on the ground. Jan 26, 2015
Julian Bobilev
  5.11c
Julian Bobilev  
  5.11c
This route is amazing and would be a classic in any area. Just unbelievable edging masterpiece. The climb eases up in a big way to mostly .10c/d after the fourth bolt. The top is tricky but I didn't find it nearly as hard as the beginning. I was able to do it without using the bolthole at the bottom on my first ascent but had to resort to using the bolthole on my redpoint attempts b/c I was too tired. Apr 13, 2014
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
  5.11c
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
  5.11c
Great! Thanks for the new Glue-ins. They are so much better! Nov 4, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
All lead bolts (except 1st) were replaced with 6" stainless glueins as of 8/31/13. 6 bolts failed with little effort on inspection. Two were 5/16 threaded studs which were actually bent and cracked below the hanger. Others (also 5/16) showed signs of weakening and coming loose from the holes so were replaced as well. The rest of the bolts on the route were the same kind as the ones that failed though showed no visible signs of possible failure. Due to the condition of the other similar bolts on the route, all were replaced for redundancy. The first bolt on the route was bomber. Sep 2, 2013
cachu
  5.11b/c
cachu  
  5.11b/c
Need to update the bolt count as it is 13 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. Super well protected, though.

I also think this is a 5.11b/c. The start is a v3 and the section from bolt 12-13 has a 3-finger pinch step through. If you like slabby crimposaurus climbs, this is right up your alley. Mar 18, 2013
clustiere  
 
.11 for sure Aug 11, 2012
Kyle Townsend
Oakland, CA
  5.11b/c
Kyle Townsend   Oakland, CA
  5.11b/c
This route is sand-bagged. I was hoping to have a nice cruiser to finish the day yesterday and holy shit! This route destroyed me! The beginning sequence is bouldery, and I would say is at LEAST V2, if not V3. The top crux is at least V2 as well, so there is no way this goes at 10d. I am being tentative when I say it's 11b/c because my feet were sore and maybe it's a style of sandstone thin face climbing that I am less familiar with. But really guys, I think we're looking at 11c/d here. I think the first crux is V3 and the last is V2 but just as hard because of how sustained the route is. Great line, excellent route. May 13, 2012
Neil Roessler
  5.11a/b
Neil Roessler  
  5.11a/b
I think this is one of the best climbs at the crag. It is long,very technical, well protected and super fun. Jan 12, 2012
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I rope soloed this today. Easy enough with the bolts every 5 feet. My first impression--11c/d. Glad to see others agree. Now, start calling that route right of the crack what it is--12B. Jan 2, 2012
Ya, I climbed this today, well more like crawled up the route. I also agree with Hans, that is more like a 11c. I mostly say that because it makes me feel better about myself. Sep 24, 2011
chill54  
Hans is right! The start is hard for the first 2 - 3 bolts. Maybe when it was first done it was 5.10 but it is sandstone and stuff has broken off. If this isn't 11.c then there are a lot of other 5.11's out there that are overrated. Mar 7, 2010
I concur with others, the first 15 ft of climbing is the hardest. And definitely STOUT 5.10. Gee why don't the simply rate it what it is!(5.11c) Jan 29, 2010
scalparm
Vienna, Austria
 
scalparm   Vienna, Austria
 
Very nice climb! Thin sustained face and many many bolts to make you feel safe and warm inside. I didn't notice the loose bolts, they may have been replaced by now. Bay area climbs has it rated at 10b....no freakin' way! Solid 11a, possibly a/b. Apr 29, 2008
Dire Blow(?) Right of "Bolt Route" (can't we came up with better names here?) rebolted, very technical 5.11c. the first bolt is a bit high, but once you have the starting sequence of moves down, is not that scary. the route continues on tiny crimps and sidepulls with med to hig feet moves, very interesting overall. Skip the last 2 old rusty bolts for the new ones a bit on the left.Beautiful climb, to do as soon as you send "Bolted Route"Lead it!

Oct 13, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Sandy up top, and the flakes left behind near where the old bolts were pulled are ready to snap. COnstant TR'ing had worn the top holds so soft nubs and it is a little scarey up there. This is not a 'speach' it's just an observation. The nature of this stone gives itselt to that sort of issue.

Good route, but a little mucky when it's hot or humid. Do it before you wear your pads down to a seaping mess- you need the friction.

harder than any of the other 10's by leagues. compared to this, Ozone and Diagonal Crack (even on trad lead) are cake walks. Sep 22, 2003
Very nice and technical climb. Using a pair of lace up shoes will help you stand on small footholds. hard start and sustained climbing up to a second crux at the top, some creative footwork required. It was my first time at Mt Diablo (climbing) and I was very surprised, this place is a little gem. A little too many bolts on the route ( 12!) and .11a in my opinion. because of the 2 cruxes and because of the continuity. Sep 15, 2003
This is a great route! First moves are frustrating. Fingers and feet slip off without warning. I think this route is mistakenly rated at 5.10b in the newest Bay Area Climbing book. No way is this 5.10b! I think the bottom moves are the hardest with another hard move getting to third bolt. There are 2 or 3 no hands rests but on the lead I couldn't take advantage of them. Last move to the chains was very hard for me too as my arms were fried. A very enjoyable climb once you get off the ground! I would say at least a letter grade harder than Ozone direct variation which is really only one hard move. *** I just registered but wanted to post this today. Paul Rezucha Mar 24, 2003
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  


The 8th and 12th bolts need redrilling, as they are both quite loose. Sep 30, 2002
Beavis
 
Beavis  
 
One of my Bay Area favorites. The start frustrates a lot of people, but once you get past it, it's sustained and intense. If you have a TR set up on it, you can climb up Amazing Face a bit and swing over to skip the start. That's cheating, to be sure, but if the first couple moves are stumping you, at least you can enjoy the rest of it. Sep 11, 2002
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Burrrrnnneeeyyy. Only a couple of resting points on the way up. Very interesting moves on the top and bottom, with scarce deminishing feet in many sections. Beware!!! The 8th and 12th bolts are loose, and will probably pull out on someone pretty soon. Jun 25, 2002