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Lower Tier Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lower Tier

L › R R › L A › Z

	Amazing Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Black Lives Matter S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bolt Route S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Chameleon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Chamosaur S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Diablo Jam T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Diagonal Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dinosaur S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
	Dogzilla S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Earthcling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Godzilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Gruntle S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Old Dino/Miwok S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Once was Lost S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ozone (a.k.a.) The Arch T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ozone Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	Polaris S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Railing Moss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Stegosaurus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Toast S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	1,437 ft	438 m
GPS:	37.8471, -121.9258 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Aron Quiter on Jun 28, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Castle Rock in Pine Canyon and the Wanna Get Away areas are closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.

Description

The Lower Tier: sport routes, trad routes and top ropes all exist on this lower section of climbing. The sport routes are slab/face climbing. The trad routes follow sandy, but fun, crack features. The climbs are tall for the Bay Area, up to about 100 feet in height.

Amazing Face, Bolt Route, and Dinosaur are the area's classic .10, .11, and .12 respectively. However, some newly bolted lines give them a run for their money! Ozone (.10c) is also a classic that climbs under a unique feature.

Because of the fragile nature of this rock, don't climb this area for at least three days after a rain storm. Furthermore, anchors are set up below the edges in order to minimize rope-scarring (old evidence of which remains sadly visible). For the routes to the (climber's) right of the chimney, there are two mechanical bolts that allow for anchor access by rappel. For the routes to the (climber's) left, a large tree enables access by rappel. Please do not top-rope off the rappel bolts/tree - it degrades our most valuable resource as climbers: the rock itself!

Getting There

Refer to general overview for Boy Scout Rocks.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 386 ● Amazing Face Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 27 ● Gruntle Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 92 ● Ozone (a.k.a.) The Arch Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 73 ● Diagonal Crack Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 26 ● Once was Lost Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 23 ● Toast Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X 23 ● Ozone Direct Trad, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 31 ● Black Lives Matter Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 10 ● Earthcling Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 22 ● Stegosaurus Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 5 ● Railing Moss Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 20 ● Old Dino/Miwok Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 140 ● Bolt Route Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 10 ● Chameleon Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R 17 ● Dinosaur Sport