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Routes in Lower Tier

Amazing Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch (a.k.a. Ozone), The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bolt Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracker Ass Cracker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diablo Jam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinosaur S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Earthcling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ozone Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,587 total, 14/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

Climb the large chimney in the middle of the rock. Nudge, squirm, jam, and any other moves can and will be used to get you up this chimney. All the moves are rests, so running out of gas is not an issue.

Crux is getting through the bulge towards the top of the route.

There's also an interesting cave in the middle of the route that heads beck a ways into the rock.

Protection

huge friends (up to 5") for a trad lead. A convenient top anchor can be set up using the tree above the route, but you should bring a 20' sling to be sure.

Photos

Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
Stinky as reported, but a good, gentle introduction to chimney'ing for your friends who you plan on taking to the valley this weekend that have never tried it before. A top rope is easy to set up from bolts that you can rap down to by slinging a tree at the top of the cliff. May 29, 2017
Smelly and awkward. Avoid. May 24, 2016
For how covered in bird poop this is, I found it quite aesthetic (for the old school trad lovers out there). A nice random way to spend your time when every other route is taken. :) the pigeons will "whoooo" at you, but they aren't dangerous at all. Feb 2, 2015
KyleAnderson
San Francisco, CA
 
KyleAnderson   San Francisco, CA
 
watch out for the crazy birds in the cave! Sep 17, 2011
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
Happy fresh bolts at the top of this. Managed to lead this without super huge gear. Stuck in things like #2 and #3 cams, #11 Hex (heck yeah!), one or two TCU placements possible and a sling around the tree after the crux. Nov 17, 2008