Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,846 total · 36/month
Shared By: Nosna on Aug 27, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

The route is a 5.7 crack that ranges from fingers to fists for most of it. The crux is the bottom third. Once you get to the tree it eases up quite a bit. Some good face holds to the right and the left.

Location

The route is an unmistakable crack in the corner just as you round the west face of the Lower Tier. There is a small tree about a third of the way up.

Protection

Cams from .5-4 will protect this sandy mother on lead. The tree halfway up can be slung.

There are two options for lowering: (1) Use a single, old, mechanical bolt + quick link at the top of the crack. Looks pretty sketchy - not recommended. (2) Climb up the headwall above the crack (two bolts) and lower off the mussies up there (shared with the bolted line to the right). Be aware that the headwall is moderate 5.10, not 5.7.

It is easy to set up a top-rope after leading the route to the right of the crack.

Photos