Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,175 total · 18/month
Shared By: Nosna on Aug 27, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

The route is a 5.7 crack that ranges from fingers to fists for the most of it. The crux is the bottom 1/3 once you get to the tree it eases up quite a bit. some good face holds to the right and the left. 2 bo

Location

The route is an unmistakable crack in the corner just as you round the west face of the lower tier. lower down or walk off. It has a smaall tree about 1/3 of the way up.

Protection

2 bolt anchor, double length nylon sling with a sliding X did the trick.

Photos

Nicola Omodei
Menlo Park, CA
 
Nicola Omodei   Menlo Park, CA
 
One of the two anchor bolts has been removed (March 2014), and you will need to use one bolt from the Amazing Face anchor using long slings. Mar 10, 2014
Stevee B
Oakland, CA
Stevee B   Oakland, CA
Just the nut and hanger are gone from the chopped bolt. You can bring a nut to fit and a wired stopper to rig it. Oct 23, 2014
New bolts and hangers at the top make for an easy top rope. Fun climb but a bit sandy. Jan 15, 2017
Simon Leigh
SF, CA
Simon Leigh   SF, CA
Going up to the lone bolt is 5.7 with some decent hand jams, friends found this harder because they refused to jam. But the final moves up the gully to the 2 bolt anchor are definitely harder than that, maybe 10a. On that first photo this would make sense because the yellow route (this one) stops at the lone bolt, while the green route is cracker ass cracker 11a/b. Once you hit the lone bolt you're basically finishing it out on the easy part of the 11a. If you're setting up the TR you'd use long slings from the 2 cracker ass cracker bolts and an optional quickdraw as a directional on the lone bolt. As one of the 2 bolts is a spinner you may want to also use a 3rd from amazing face which means an even longer cord/sling, this does have the bonus of helping to center the masterpoint in the gully and away from the rock. I'd suggest bringing 40ft of static if you're going to use the 3rd bolt too, or 20ft if you're ok with the 2 bolts. Jul 17, 2018
Zeb Martin
Davis
 
Zeb Martin   Davis
 
Cracker Ass Cracker top rope bolts - 1 bolt is spinning as of 12/15/2018.

I tried to trad climb this route but the final moves to mantle/top out are extremely difficult with how much the surface has worn down, definitely a top rope. Dec 16, 2018