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Routes in Lower Tier

Amazing Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch (a.k.a. Ozone), The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bolt Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracker Ass Cracker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diablo Jam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinosaur S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Earthcling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ozone Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Claude Fiddler
Page Views: 1,514 total, 10/month
Shared By: Paolo Milana on Nov 19, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

In my opinion the best route of Diablo. Climbs a series of very small crimps immediately right of "Diagonal Crack".The first bolt is 15 feet high, but after you boulder or TR the start a couple of times it does not scares you anymore. Offers a wide variety of face moves including sidepulls, mantles, and highstepping on tiny holds.Arrange long anchor slings if you want to avoid the final runout mantle on loose rock. Reminds of J.Tree kind of climbing.

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jimi thornburg
  5.12a/b PG13
jimi thornburg  
  5.12a/b PG13
I replaced the old (chopped for some reason) anchor yesterday. The anchor is in a good spot for top-roping, but it also protects the last moves when leading (as the original anchor once did). The runout is still big to the anchor, but maybe not R...just really scary! Apr 2, 2015
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Top roped this today. A bit stout. Jan 2, 2012
scalparm
Vienna, Austria
 
scalparm   Vienna, Austria
 
By far the hardest 11d ever! I only worked it once and took at every bolt. It's a puzzle to find the holds and they're super crimpy or slopey and it's SUPER sustained. Would be a very proud send. 5.12a/b I thinks. Quality climb. Apr 29, 2008
Patrick Sawyer
Californian Living in Ireland
Patrick Sawyer   Californian Living in Ireland
I worked this route (if it is the one the description sounds like) for a long time in 1973 and 1974, though Claude Fiddler beat me to finish it in the end (we both worked it together and separately). I think it is one of the best climbs on the mountain. Jun 8, 2006
Paolo Milana
  5.12a
Paolo Milana  
  5.12a
I would like to upgrade this route, either holds broke or is the hardest 11d I ever tried. It's a 12 and very heat dependent, beautiful if you like SMALL crimps and intense footwork. Oct 1, 2005
Paolo Milana
  5.12a
Paolo Milana  
  5.12a
Dinosaur 11d , Lower Tier, Fantastic technical slab route. Climbs for little less than 30 meters the slightly below vertical face immediately left of Diagonal Crack. Incredible moves on very small holds and footholds, new bolts. The best route of the area for that grade hands down. Nov 21, 2004