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Routes in Lower Tier

Amazing Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch (a.k.a. Ozone), The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bolt Route S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracker Ass Cracker TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diablo Jam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinosaur S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Earthcling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ozone Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Stegasaurus TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,744 total · 9/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 20, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

The direct start to Ozone involves some interesting mantle moves up a sandstone face. This route is located on the far left side of the lower tier.

The serious rating is so because there is no place for pro until you get up to the cracked roof, which is about 20 feet off the ground, and the crux is getting to the roof.

Once the hands run out, traverse up and left to the main crack of ozone, and then over the roof and finish off on ozone.

Protection

friends to 3". Bring a long sling (30'+) for a toprope, which can be set up off a tree directly above the route.

Photos

Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
This is a fun route but is definitely harder if you are shorter than 5'10"! Not sure where the bottom is supposed to start but we started a few feet left of where this photo shows. The hardest move on the climb is a long reach up and left to a 1/2" bucket midway up the face. A tricky move left gets you to another 1/2" diagonal bucket. Great jams under arch! The upper cracks require good jamming techniques. This would be VERY difficult without jamming as the footholds are non existent for a couple moves and good finger holds are few. The Bolt Route, which is rated at 5.10b in the newest Bay Area guide book, is a lot harder! This site rates the Bolt Route at 5.11a which I feel to be correct.This route requires various climbing techniques making it quite interesting and unique! Mar 24, 2003
cachu
  5.11b
cachu  
  5.11b
My new favorite TR climb. Very beta intensive and precise. Fun stuff. Mar 18, 2013

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