Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Edwin Drummond, 1984
Page Views: 3,441 total · 27/month
Shared By: Crochie Crochiere on Aug 11, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

Broken holds at the bottom have upped the grade over the years. Climbing through the first three bolts involves desperate crimping and nothing for feet, and seems at least as hard as any of the sequences on Dinosaur.

Gaining the fourth bolt involves running it out on sandy rock. If the climber blows it at the end, the belayer will have to be attentive to prevent a ground fall.

After that, the rest of the climb is a delight, involving interesting movement on slopey dishes and surprisingly crisp crimps.

Location

To the right of Bolt Route. Currently the rightmost line on this sector of the Lower Tier.

Protection

Eight glue-in bolts (6"; 2013). Stick clip highly recommended.

The anchors (in Oct. '21) are manky old chains that look like they belong in a BDSM fantasy. It's easy to traverse left to the anchors of Bolt Route, using a good rail for hands, for a more confidence-inspiring lower.

Photos