[Hide Comment] The line is not that bad to protect and not that hard. For most folks the crux will be 10' off the ground and is well protected. SHorter folks might find another crux just below the left-hand finish, going to a big flake/jug.

The climb is easily protected up to the huge arch with no bolts at all. THe huge arch can be slung through with a cordalette, (there are bolts on either side of it for a short TR) and you can finish left (up to an easy chimney) or right on a sloping, loose traverse.

For more spice/difficulty up top, instead of diagonaling left under the final bulge, cut up and right into a steep, narrow, open book (hard, slopey) to add a crux.

I lead the climb on a set of stoppers, cams from 1" to 3.5" and pink, red, and brown tricams. As it was my first lead here and I knew little of the rock quality, I loaded the crack with gear, placing mostly at 5' intervals. Later, a huge # of people TR'd below the gear and eventually hung on or swung on most of the pieces- ALL held that much.

After leading, building an anchor at the big arch by the 2 bolts would be best, then let the follower finish up to the tree- no drag, no swinging in the event that the second falls, and a better place to watch from.

Two stars for this crag, or maybe 3. Keeping in mind the area, I thought the line was almost as good as, but more interesting than Amazing Face.

Mostly 5.9 with a few harder moves. Crack climbing experience is requisite to grade the climb as such. Sep 22, 2003

[Hide Comment] So I forgot my guidebook this last weekend and decided to lead the Diagnol.

I made a few bad choices that I think I should mention here so that other people dont do the same.

After the third bolt (there are three on the climb, the first two are VERY suspect) the climb either goes left into a dirty 5.6 chimney or traverses right as Tony metioned.

It also looks like you could go straight up. The face is pretty well featured on the steep part as far as you can see. I decided to go up.

After 10 feet of 5.9 or so, the face becomes much less steep. But, there aren't any holds on this part and its mossy and sandy. 15 feet above my last bolt (not as suspect as the last two, but still worrisome), 5 feet from the top, I was stuck and unhappy. After scrubbing moss for 5 minutes and finally getting someone up top to toss down a sling (for me to grab in case my feet started to slide), I did the sandy slab move free. It was probably 10b. But it was scary as hell and I don't recommend anyone going this way on lead unless another bolt is drilled into the top of the face. Oct 11, 2004

[Hide Comment] Diagonal Crack is a great route to be sure. I put off trying to lead this as it always looked very intimidating but the climb actually does protect very well. I, too, laced the route with gear mainly because I don't trust the quality of the rock to take a longer fall. Of course by placing so much gear I got very pumped making the last move to the final jug this much " " too hard. I grabbed the jug and fingers just peeled off. I don't know if I missed a placement or didn't have the right gear but I fell about 15' with rope stretch. A good rest and I made it second try. I think this top move is the crux of the climb as it's a very thin move with a long reach. To exit, I ended up traversing the easy way to the left and going to the top with TONS of rope drag.A much more difficult lead than Amazing Face and good crack technique is a must! Jul 25, 2005

[Hide Comment] Very nice. Good gear. The top out is disappointing. Solid 10b in my opinion. Apr 29, 2008

[Hide Comment] I agree with Tony. Feels like mostly "Yosemite 5.9" with a few slightly harder moves. Not 10d, though. Pro was pretty good when you need it. Going left after the 1st bolt is easy but leaves a short, semi-exposed crack between you and safety. I didn't go right, but the anchor is probably better for TR. I led this climb on BD cams .5-1, and purple to red link cams. an extra 2 and 3 would be good if you like lots of gear. The linkies are good on some of the pin scar-like pods. Jun 8, 2009

[Hide Comment] Nice crack climb. TR'd the lower 2/3 of climb. There are birds or bats that live about halfway up. Seemed empty now but they may be back in the spring.

Very enjoyable laps running up the climd direct and utilizing the alternate start of the left facing flake. Mar 13, 2012

[Hide Comment] This is a stellar crack climb for the bay area. Takes excellent, bomber pro, and has great moves. I felt like it was 10c, but that's only if you traverse right after the second bolt, climbing past a bulge. The finish is a nice hand traverse on slab, really cerebral finish! Gear to 3", many nut placements, opportunities for small TCU placements as well. May 13, 2012

[Hide Comment] I wasn't aware that their were "ANY" bolts on the diagonal. Perhaps you're thinking of the Dinosaur? Jan 6, 2013

[Hide Comment] From the Tresa Black guide book:
"...There is a bolt near the top of the crack for added protection if leading."

Perhaps this is the bolt you guys are talking about? I led diagonal crack expecting to use this bolt for protection. I was sadly disappointed when I found it had been chopped. The bolt chopper didn't even do a good job, as that the hanger was gone, but the bolt was still sticking out.

Little did I know that the top section is completely run out. After a couple of awkward high step and pinch moves, I found that I was faced with a number of unprotectable pockets. I tried to shove a cam into one of them, but it started to cut grooves in the rock when I tugged on it. Realizing that I was screwed, I tried to run it out to the last move, but I had already burned too much energy trying to protect for the last ten minutes. I ended up falling, my gear popped, and I took a 30 foot whipper.

The lack of a bolt to protect the end is quite unfortunate. I feel that it ruins what would otherwise be an awesome trad route. If anybody is interested in fixing the bolt up again, I'm sure climbers at Mt Diablo would appreciate it. I'd be happy help out if you contact me. Dec 5, 2013

[Hide Comment] The bolt has been replaced with a glue-in, albeit a couple feet higher than the original where the crack actually runs out and the moves get hard. The old manky stud has been removed and the rock patched. Also, the two bolts at the end of Godzilla have been replaced which brings back the opportunity for a fun right finish to the Diagonal Crack. Aug 11, 2014

[Hide Comment] I did this climd in76 so it was down at least that far back Feb 9, 2017

[Hide Comment] Looks like I'll have to go back and properly finish the line based on what people are saying here. We scrambled down to what I assume is the left finish of the crack to set a top rope on two good bolts. ~3 directionals (C4 #0.5, 0.75, 1) would make falls anywhere on the route basically swing-less. I would definitely recommend this setup, since it seems like the anchor far out right people are mentioning would just serve to put you far away from the crack if you fall out during most of the climb? But from what I'm seeing here, it seems like I was simply not at the top of the climb? I did see a single bolt on the face above the anchor I used, but didn't have a belayer to go check it out at the time.

We ended up climbing farther out left up the face to meet up with the crack (somewhere between the start of Stegosaurus and WTF face) when we realized there was a brand new bird's nest with newborn chicks in the pod where I was going to place the lowest directional.

Climb was a ton of fun, mostly 5.9 with a well defined 5.10 crux near the top for me.

Be nice to the birds, people! Nobody wants their front door blocked by a big piece of metal :) May 29, 2017

[Hide Comment] Fun climb, especially if you make the traverse over from Stegosaurus. Just as a heads up, the birds have started nesting in the crack again, so try not to crush the young with a hand jam or cam. Jun 18, 2018

[Hide Comment] climbed this today (on TR) and found there are still birds nesting in the crack. Swung over to finish on the 12 next to it - please respect the cute little birds' home!! thoroughly enjoyed the first 2/3 of the climb. Oct 14, 2018

[Hide Comment] Changed things up and led this climb on aid. It was super fun! Probably C2 in some places, especially if you don't have a #5 or #6 with you. Definitely recommended if you want to get some thought-provoking aid practice in. Jun 17, 2019

[Hide Comment] A fun climb. no harder than 5.9 Sep 29, 2020

[Hide Comment] Did a top rope solo the other day. Bolts are easily accessible from the top for anchor set up. In addition, they have nice Mussey Hooks for lowering. Had fun climbing 2/3rds of the way following the crack. Lots of holds when climbing leaning to the left. Then moved to the right because did not want to swing too much. The rest of the climb was more difficult as I was on Dinosaur. Jan 2, 2021

[Hide Comment] TR soled this crack. Maybe .10a or .10b near the beginning. The rest is 5.8 or 5.9. The crack is dirty, full of spider webs, bird poop and nesting swallows about halfway up. This crack is way easier than Ozone! Jul 14, 2024

[Hide Comment] Crazy story I stumbled upon reading old SuperTopo forum threads. Makes me sweat thinking about it. From user Maysho:

"1980 I was 18, livin in El Portal, and soloing was the thing. Bachar was our buddy and set the bar high. Most of us stayed in the solid jammin 5.10 range, Gripper, Anathema, Reeds Direct, Cookie right then down Cookie left, and just admired what John had done, (Nabisco, New D, etc.) Once, 5 of us did Reeds (Werner, Cashner, JB, Kauk) with all on the second pitch at the same time. One week I did Five and Dime, then went down to the Bay to work a few days. I found myself up on Mt. Diablo at Rock City with a friend. I had never climbed there before, but my confidence was high from my recent circuits in the Valley. So I start up the classic diagonal crack, 5.9+ of 5.10-, onsight, but the jams look good and I figure I can downclimb if needed, and hey this is just a practice crag, and I am a young Valley hardboy and all. So, there is a bulge, the jams become sandy little pockets, I pull through, but have the definite feeling that I am not wanting to reverse those moves. I am standing on a little sloper, and see that the crack fades away and the crux is pure face, Now I make it a point to try to make my solos solo. I do not like to pass parties or do it with others around. So, around the corner comes a troup of boy scouts, "Oh my god, that guy does not have a rope" "Thats really stupid!", chimes the scoutmaster, then lets them all sit down and watch this bad example. I pucker up, really wanting to be somewhere else. Fear, the taste of stale adrenaline, legs shaking a bit. I force myself to calm. "You do not fall on 5.10 face when you have a rope and pro!" I tell myself a few times. I get it under control, barely, and make the moves. On top, shaking, feeling like puking, I duck into the woods to find a stick to scrape my underwear, and vow to stick to granite cracks I know so well." Oct 8, 2024