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Routes in Moderate Mecca

Abbey Road T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ace of Hearts T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Baby Swiss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bad Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Born To Bleed 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V2 5+
Carpetbagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feelin' Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fleet Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goose Poop Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haj, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immoral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muckraker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mugwump TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Moderate T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Pending Disaster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Route to Mecca, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scalawag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Singing Love Pen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Climbalot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Claims T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soup Nazi TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soupy Sales T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stew on This S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treacherous Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine's Day T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vera's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
You Who Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,720 total, 36/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start to the right of the Fleet Street slab, but to the left of the corner/gully. Cracks lead up the low angle face. This is a good route to bring a new climber on.

Protection

Standard Rack
When I first climbed this in 2015, I did not see anchors above the second pitch, but when I climbed it again today, I noticed newish-looking anchors there, so I am not sure if I just missed them before or if they truly are new.

Anyway, these anchors make the easy second pitch worthwhile since you can rap back down without leaving anything. There is also an easy walk-off from the top back to the trail and parking lot.

You can protect the second pitch with up to a #4 cam, though it isn't necessary. Jun 13, 2017
David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
This route is great for practicing nut placements. Apr 24, 2017
Good beginner gear lead. All the stances are safe to fiddle with gear. Mike Mu has it right, small nuts for the crack lower on the route, cams for the upper portions as the crack widens a bit. Easy to protect the roofish move higher up. Two bolt anchor with links. Easy rap to the ground with a 60m. Dec 13, 2015
james schaefer
Henderson, NV
james schaefer   Henderson, NV
Heads up: there is a loose block (8 inches cubed?) on this route, just above the "overhang" feature and to the right. Dec 29, 2013
Keithb00ne
Las Vegas, NV
 
Keithb00ne   Las Vegas, NV
 
Most people stop the route at the top, but I think it is fun to traverse right and top out above Penny Lane. Jul 26, 2013
dirty son of a cinch
las vegas, nv
  5.4
dirty son of a cinch   las vegas, nv
  5.4
to left of the crack is two bolts going up and makes for a great climb{though i did this from top rope} after climbing the trad crack 5.4--great fun Feb 8, 2012
Alex Rogers
Sydney, Australia
 
Alex Rogers   Sydney, Australia
 
Excellent climb, well protected easy fun. Oct 4, 2011
hyadventure
Santa Ana
 
hyadventure   Santa Ana
 
Great route for a first trad lead. Takes passive and active pro easly and has a quality bolted anchor. Mar 22, 2010
cassondra long  
  5.4
The first pitch can be easily protected with only passive gear IMHO. Jul 29, 2009
Ron Graham
  5.4
Ron Graham  
  5.4
Great place for a new leader because of its low angle, large footholds, and frequency of placement options for small nuts and cams. It's pretty out of the way for most people climbing in the Moderate Mecca area, so it's pretty easy to get on it. Mar 1, 2009
Mike Mu.
hagerstown
Mike Mu.   hagerstown
great route! just bring small nuts for the lower half, a few small cams up to metolius black (0.75 camalot) would be fine for the upper section. nice bolted anchor and rap station on ledge above overhang. single 60m rope will get you back to the base. Apr 18, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.4
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.4
I agree with last post; Excellent easy route for the area and especially at this grade! Do not miss and watch out for those Chuckwalla's living in the cracks! Nov 22, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.4
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.4
This is my favorite 5.4 in Red Rock. Perfect for beginners, perfect for new leaders...good line in general.

You can also use this line to set a TR for Fleet Street and Muckraker. Although you could set if for Scalawag as well, the rope stretch makes the fall at the crux very dangerous (groundfall is a high likelihood). Sep 9, 2005