Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Grandstaff & Rider, Valentine's Day '88
Page Views: 9,954 total · 52/month
Shared By: George Bell on Apr 28, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


281 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is one of the most obvious routes at the crag and perhaps the first one done. It is a huge left facing corner around the corner from the first few routes you come to.

I'd recommend taping up. The crack is somewhat awkward but has some great jams and stem rests. Two bolt anchor at the top on the left.

Protection

Rack up to #3 Camalot
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
Yeah George.... Gotta watch out for the man-eating dragons that psych out your belay! Feb 20, 2004
Matt Chan
Denver
  5.8
Matt Chan   Denver
  5.8
The start is a little tricky, but the friction of the stone is good and the abundance of face holds make it fun. Not too much else going on at this crag, but if you're in the area this route deserves a visit.

Decent looking rap bolts just left of the route. Thread the hole with a sling for a little added measure of safety. The TR to the left is also worthy of a go. Jun 6, 2005
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8+
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8+
IMHO the best route at the Moderate Mecca and should not be missed; the crack takes great gear and this route is really FUN!! Nov 28, 2006
Mike Mu.
hagerstown
Mike Mu.   hagerstown
best route at the crag. more fun if you jam the crack the whole way and forego the face holds. bolts at the top and left are in good condition. the 5.10+ face climb to the left is great too. just follow the thin crack system, i.e chalk marks. Apr 18, 2007
Mark L  
Good route - look for the stems and move fast through the cruxes. May 13, 2008
JSH

JSH    
Good stances, good number of solid moves, good gear - just wish it were longer! Apr 9, 2010
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.8
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.8
I think this is probably a great route for a beginner 5.8 leader. Doubles of #0.4 to #3 camalot with just biners are a perfect, light, and quick way to sew it up. Anchor and chains in good condition. Mar 16, 2011
Keithb00ne Boone
Las Vegas, NV
 
Keithb00ne Boone   Las Vegas, NV
 
Excellent crack with right hand jams and left hand crimps. The route can be sewn up with a standard rack. The worst route of the crag! (Just saying that so everyone leaves it for me) :) Jul 26, 2013
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Used #2 yellow Mastercam rather than a tighter piece down low in first thin section because gear is notorious for getting stuck. Dec 25, 2013
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.8+
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.8+
This route is about 40 feet, not 100. Super easy approach, and fun while it lasts. Apr 7, 2014
the professor
  5.8+
the professor  
  5.8+
Going to disagree with Joseph Stover. This is old-school 5.8+ more suited to the 5.9 leader than a new-to-trad 5.8 leader. Quality climb. Mar 11, 2016
Mitch Guichon
  5.8+
Mitch Guichon  
  5.8+
Great Route, can be sewn up with a standard rack quite easily. I was expecting less jams and didn't think to tape up. I was wrong; there are many solid jams and some tape would have saved some skin!

Be wary of the crack ~8ft off the ground, you will see a quite a few lost cams that walked into the crack. I slotted in a piece for my belayer below and ran it out till above, but that's a call you have to make on comfort. Howard above me kind of echoed the same thing, but keep that in mind as you may not see it on the ground.

Solid rests all the way up, I don't know if its the easiest climb for a beginner leader as it has the old school 5.8+ feel to it. Hop on this if you're in the area! Nov 9, 2016