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Routes in Moderate Mecca

Abbey Road T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ace of Hearts T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Baby Swiss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Carpetbagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackers for my Soup T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Feelin' Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fleet Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goose Poop Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haj, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immoral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muckraker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mugwump TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Moderate T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Pending Disaster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Route to Mecca, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scalawag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Singing Love Pen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Climbalot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Claims T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soup Nazi TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soupy Sales T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stew on This S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treacherous Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Valentine's Day T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Who Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: T. Swain, P. Ross, 12/98
Page Views: 3,350 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The gymnastics of this climb are nice, and it is well-protected and fun, but is not a standout at red rocks. It's slightly dirty and sharp nature, as well as it's one-move-wonderness prevent this from being a destination climb.

To find Scalawag, starting from the left end of Moderate Mecca's Left side, then walk back to the right to find an obvious roof crack with hands-to-off-hands jams and a few holds above the lip. Climb up under a large roof and work out on the left side wall, stemming and protecting overhead all the while, before launching into the roof moves, which go horizontal. Pull the lip and pro again, then wander up the lower angle face on a shallow crack system.

The anchors at the top are for rapping, but if you protected before the roof, lowing off might trash your rope. As well, if your second hang-dogs before cleaning under the roof, it will hack your rope.

Protection

A rack of stoppers and cams to 4" including optional doubles in 2" - 3.5"

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
I have to disagree with the route posters assesment of this climb (and actually, the entire area). Scalawag is sort of a one move wonder, to be sure, but the climbing up to the move is fairly stout and a fall would certainly put you on the deck. The rack mentioned is probably excessive. A #2 and a #3 camalot suffice below the roof and then above, a couple of smallish pieces along with a few stoppers and an alien or two make your anchor.

A single 60m rope gets you back to the deck.

Overall, the climbing is pleasant and quite good, in my opinion. definitely not a climb to miss if you're a 5.9 climber with some muscle. Jun 18, 2005
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
  5.10+
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
  5.10+
I agree with tradguy on the muscle. The roof is very protectable. I would add the inclusion of a 3.5 inch piece however. Jan 28, 2006
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
 
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
 
too bad there isn't some more sustained climbing after the roof, would make this a great climb. Great climb for pictures! Jan 9, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
This thing looks like 5.11 from below but climbs two grades easier (and I agree with the one-move-wonderness). Brute strength and grunting is helpful. May 29, 2012
Daire Maguire
Calgary, Alberta
Daire Maguire   Calgary, Alberta
Bit of a sandbag perhaps to say this is great for a 5.9 leader...also a BD 4 or equivalent is necessary to protect against getting close to the deck. Mar 31, 2016

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