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Routes in Moderate Mecca

Abbey Road T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ace of Hearts T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Baby Swiss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bad Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Born To Bleed 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V2 5+
Carpetbagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feelin' Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fleet Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goose Poop Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haj, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immoral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muckraker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mugwump TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Moderate T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Pending Disaster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Route to Mecca, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scalawag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Singing Love Pen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Climbalot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Claims T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soup Nazi TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soupy Sales T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stew on This S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treacherous Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine's Day T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vera's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
You Who Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,431 total, 18/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Nov 22, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Fantastic thin route just left of Valentine's Day corner! Takes VERY thin gear and leading would only be for the seasoned trad climber IMHO. Great movement and easily toproped from the Valentine's Day anchors.

Location

Start of route is about 10 feet left of Valentine's Day; follow thin cracks straight up face and rappel from anchors on ledge above.

Protection

This gear; mostly small wires and brass nuts. No bolts on route but fixed anchors are shared with Valentine's Day!

Photos

Ball
Oakridge, OR
5.10b/c
Ball   Oakridge, OR
5.10b/c
I didn't have a book but needed a rest day after epin so I headed to moderate mecca and got on this thing. Whoops!

Thin is right! I tried and failed to place my grey 00 TCU multiple times, fell on a small nut, and shoved a couple cams in the undercling for the finish. Technical for such a short climb Jan 24, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Whoa, I never said the rock was "good." It's certainly not Challenger or Brownstone Wall quality but... I have fallen on gear placed in worse. Just a good route. Nothin' more than that. Feb 2, 2012
Dude, if you think the rock on this pile is good, we gotta get you out a LOT further in the canyons....

There's gear on it, I took ballnuts, did the whole sewing it up dance, still some ghetto unfabbalusness happening. If you think that those cams would hold a good sized fall, let's go do the haulbag test-my pink rock choss detector says it's take-worthy but would break under a decent whip.

Fun climb, but just cause gear goes in doesn't make it safe. IE bolts in the Fishers, for instance...or the Hamlet. Feb 1, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
It's arguable if this route really deserves the PG-13 rating. Yes, the gear is thin but the hardest moves are protected by a good small cam- albeit the cam is at your feet when the hard stuff is finally over. I will second John in saying that ballnuts would work very well if you wanted to sew this thing up tight. Very good movement and the rock is surprisingly OK considering the rest of the rock on the wall. Feb 1, 2012
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.10d PG13
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.10d PG13
Definitely a fun climb--very technical. Gear was better than the guidebook description, but required some thought. I did break off a rather sizable hold, but it doesn't seem to have affected the route too much (partner followed it just fine). Mar 10, 2010
Josh Audrey
LAS VEGAS
  5.10b/c
Josh Audrey   LAS VEGAS
  5.10b/c
Led this today, small cams and one RP got me to the top just fine. Mar 4, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d PG13
those who would lead this better be bold- the gear is thin and definitely not the best where its hard. ballnutz would probably be ideal for a route like this and likely provide some peace of mind. most should just TR it after leading Valentine's day.

great route, though- probably the best at the cliff. Jan 13, 2008