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Routes in Moderate Mecca

Abbey Road T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ace of Hearts T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Baby Swiss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Born To Bleed 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V2 5+
Carpetbagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feelin' Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fleet Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goose Poop Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haj, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immoral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muckraker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mugwump TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Moderate T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Pending Disaster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Route to Mecca, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scalawag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Singing Love Pen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Climbalot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Claims T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soup Nazi TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soupy Sales T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stew on This S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treacherous Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine's Day T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vera's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
You Who Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: K. Campbell, T. Swain, 12/98
Page Views: 1,296 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This climb is so-so, but at least it's engaging. Not something you'll likely forget if you are pushing 5.8 leads from the low end. This may be one of the better routes at Moderate Mecca, but is not a destination climb for Red Rocks.

To find Fleet Street, first locate Scalawag. Starting from the left end of Moderate Mecca's Left side, walk back to the right to find an obvious roof crack with hands-to-off-hands jams and a few holds above the lip; this is Scalawag. Perhaps 2-3 meters still further right is a second crack system that climbs out and round the roof's right side, which is Muckraker.

Fleet Street is the relatively low-angle face just right of Muckraker. Some distance up there is a bolt, and some distance above that one, a second bolt. The climbing continues on small sloping holds, and although not difficult, is insecure. As well, the sparse protection reminds you that it's best to be careful here. Climb upward and onward, occasionally encountering a shallow crack until a ledge is reached. Rap from an anchor on that ledge 90' back to the ground. A 60M rope may be necessary unless you go to a different anchor. Take care.

Protection

The Swain book suggests carrying some stoppers to supplement the 2 bolts on this route. As I recall it, I did so and didn't get anything I thought was very worthy. I'd suggest that this route be taken somewhat seriously.

Photos

Solo TR after leading the first pitch of Abbey Road. Fun and pretty easy, but I think the runout would have scared me had I been leading it. Jun 13, 2017
Thank you for your efforts to Save Hot Climber Chicks, Scott.

Wasn't it worth it? Feb 8, 2012
dirty son of a cinch
las vegas, nv
  5.8 R
dirty son of a cinch   las vegas, nv
  5.8 R
really run out for me, so top roped from abbey road-- and great moves from my opinion. probably lame for more experieced climbers--saw a guide jet up it in like seriously two minutes clipping and all (made me feel lame) but great for me!!! Feb 8, 2012
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
I thought the bolts were right where they were needed. The route appears to have been bolted on lead for the FA, since both bolts are at stances. If you were to fall at the crux, the first bolt will be at your knee level. I though this route was a much more memorable experience than say, the 8's at the Panty Wall. If you're adept at placing gear, and don't climb when the rock is wet, adequate gear can be had to protect the moves to the first bolt. Not everything needs to be a rap-bolted sport climb. Dec 29, 2010
anthony509
las vegas nv
  5.8 R
anthony509   las vegas nv
  5.8 R
Good example of lame runout bolting. Dec 21, 2010
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
1/12/10. The "bolts" have been replaced. There are now 3/8x3" w/ real hangers on this route. No new bolts were added, so it is still heads-up, but safe to fall on them... Anything I can do to help Save the Hot Climber Chicks... Jan 12, 2010
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Decent route, but apparently two fucking idiots who are not willing to donate at least 1 good hanger, put it up!!!bolts are good but hangers are mank..You can get a decent nut before the first "bolt" and a mirco wire, and a larger cam after the second "not quite a bolt".

Just shows the work that people are willing to go through to put up a new route..They must be and accepting local ethics.


Assholes Dec 4, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 R
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 R
interestingly, there's a pair of shiny new bolts at the top of this route (and Abbey Road), but the person who put them in didnt think to replaced the mank on this route. I've led some sketchy 5.8's, but I wouldnt bother with this one, just TR it after soloing Abbey- this route is definitely not worth dying for. Jan 13, 2008
This route has its own title for me...worst route I've ever led! Weather deteriorated into wind and rain, making 5.8 seem questionable, the bolts were two outstanding examples of Todd Swain's utter disregard for the hot climber chicks he might be putting in traction by his shoddy engineering and mishmash of unsafe bolts-what a waste of vastly cute girls, Todd. I wouldn't wish the bolts on this on the guys who are still chipping limestone around here-they're just terrible. If you're leading this, you're soloing, so be warned. Jun 29, 2007
Mike Mu.
hagerstown
Mike Mu.   hagerstown
yeah the bolts are pretty poor. I was all over the route looking for the 5.8 move, but could not find it. maybe it felt easier on top rope. i certainly would not want to lead it. Apr 18, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8+ R
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8+ R
The last post and route description are spot on! I would NOT recommend leading this thing as the bolts are crap and the moves surprisingly stout for the grade, especially when considering the run-out and don't count on any good gear placements. Better to TR from Abbey Road anchors. Nov 22, 2006
10b4me
 
10b4me  
 
The first bolt has a "hanger" made of an old sawn-off soft iron ring piton with a hole drilled in the blade.

The other bolt has a BROKEN cold shut for a hanger.

Strange, because the bolts themselves seem new. Feb 8, 2005