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Routes in Moderate Mecca

Abbey Road T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ace of Hearts T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Baby Swiss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Born To Bleed 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V2 5+
Carpetbagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feelin' Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fleet Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goose Poop Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haj, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immoral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muckraker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mugwump TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Moderate T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Pending Disaster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Route to Mecca, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scalawag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Singing Love Pen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Climbalot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Claims T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soup Nazi TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soupy Sales T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stew on This S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treacherous Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine's Day T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vera's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
You Who Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Swain, Gill, Krolak '99
Page Views: 2,549 total, 14/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 19, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This climb is the crack 30 feet to the left of the major deep dihedral closest to the parking area (Chicken Gumbo). Climb up the length of the crack, the crux being the first 10 feet. The crux area is also fairly difficult to protect, so be careful.

Set up a gear anchor, then the base can be reached by a walk off to the right.

Protection

Standard Rack
Big chunk of the shelf 7 feet up at the crux broke off today and my partner decked. Recommend caution, also suggest a ground anchor so your partner doesn't roll off the ledge and take you with him. Dec 10, 2014
Keithb00ne
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Keithb00ne   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Just top rope it. It isn't worth leading. Jul 26, 2013
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
You might want to bring extra large cams for the anchor - I used #1, #2 or #3 (two out of those three, I don't recall), plus a much smaller piece as a third.

Not a bad climb, some offwidth included. I felt safe, placing gear at regular intervals on the way up. The start is awkward. Nov 21, 2012
cammyjams
Las Vegas, NV
cammyjams   Las Vegas, NV
We found a fun variation to the left of the crack on the black varnished face after the initial start. Thin crimpers and delicate foot work needed. Guessing 5.8 avoiding the middle crack altogether. Watch that loose block up there. Dec 16, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
It's not too difficult to find a good directional and gear placements during the beginning of this climb; just look around a bit and avoid the obvious crumbly rock! BEWARE: A large loose block about 10 feet from the top on the left hand side of the crack is extremely loose and would seriously ruin your belayers day, a "X" has been drawn on the rock with chalk, caution!! Nov 22, 2006