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Routes in Moderate Mecca

Abbey Road T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ace of Hearts T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Baby Swiss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Carpetbagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackers for my Soup T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Feelin' Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fleet Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goose Poop Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haj, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immoral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muckraker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mugwump TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Moderate T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Pending Disaster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Route to Mecca, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scalawag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Singing Love Pen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Climbalot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Claims T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soup Nazi TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soupy Sales T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stew on This S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treacherous Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Valentine's Day T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Who Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,473 total · 15/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Climb the crack system in the huge corner/gully to the right of the Fleet Street slab.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.3
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.3
This route is not worth the effort IMHO. Be AWARE that most of the climb in on loose blocks. Very low quality route that should be avoided unless you're into this sort of P.O.S. Nov 22, 2006
Mike Mu.
hagerstown
Mike Mu.   hagerstown
dont waste your time Apr 18, 2007
scott isaacman
Silver Bay, MN
 
scott isaacman   Silver Bay, MN
 
I liked this climb. It was easy and fun. Did Abby Road right after, although I think it is just a little to the left. Apr 26, 2008
JGriffis
Las Vegas, NV
JGriffis   Las Vegas, NV
I thought the route was great for a first trad lead. Low stress, easy climbing. Good route for getting acquainted with placing pro. It is chossy, though, in some places. Tread lightly through the upper bit of the pitch, especially. Apr 3, 2010
Alex Rogers
Sydney, Australia
 
Alex Rogers   Sydney, Australia
 
Thought this was really good fun, and the rock isn't bad at all. Perhaps the comments above came from another similar climb? We climbed some anonymous horror around the corner thinking it was Penny Lane, about 5.4-5.5, but VERY loose and chossy. I can't find details of it in Handren's book or on here. Penny Lane itself was fun, and super clean in comparison. Oct 4, 2011
Keithb00ne Boone
Las Vegas, NV
 
Keithb00ne Boone   Las Vegas, NV
 
There are some loose rocks, but no more so than other routes of comparable grade. Overall a good route. The fly's at the bottom of the route in the summer time are extreamely annoying. Jul 26, 2013
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
 
Not a bad route if you free solo it. Use all the available jams to milk the full value. Dec 25, 2013
Robert Karl
Pasadena, CA
 
Robert Karl   Pasadena, CA
 
Very safe beginner lead. Definitely chossy. You can walk off the top so it feels like you've accomplished something.

There's a single bolt about 105' feet up, but no chains. Nov 29, 2016
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.3
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.3
Pretty easy, even for a beginner trad leader. I'll leave some beta which might be obvious to someone with some experience but might be helpful to a newbie since this is likely to be lead by newbies:

1. There's no rule you can't supplement fixed pro with artificial pro. We supplemented the bolt at the top with a #3 C4.
2. If you rap down on a 60m rope you're going to come up about 1.5m short; rapping off the end of your rope is more dangerous than the downclimb. Don't forget stopper knots! Apr 24, 2017
Ashort
Las Vegas, NV
 
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
 
I was confused about where the route ended. I got onto a decent ledge and was looking at a bunch of loose blocks above me. I'd say that was just above the level of the abbey road anchor. I chose to build an anchor just below that in a good crack. After I had to climb abbey road and traverse over and grab my gear. Oct 22, 2018

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