Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Moderate Mecca

Abbey Road T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ace of Hearts T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Baby Swiss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Born To Bleed 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V2 5+
Carpetbagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feelin' Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fleet Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goose Poop Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haj, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immoral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muckraker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mugwump TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Moderate T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Pending Disaster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Route to Mecca, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scalawag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Singing Love Pen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Climbalot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Claims T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soup Nazi TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soupy Sales T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stew on This S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treacherous Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine's Day T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vera's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
You Who Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Kevin Campbell & Todd Swain
Page Views: 1,592 total, 12/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Nov 22, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


36 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Right at the VERY beginning is a deceiving move off the deck that looks easy and then is hard to get your feet up high to the holds. After the original boulder move the route is actually VERY good following some small flakes and face holds. Good route!

Location

At a funky grey colored bolt and hanger around the arete from Stew on This. Pull the bulge, then follow the thin seam just left of the arete.

Protection

A couple of bolts and some helpful small gear placements. Shares anchors with Stew on This for your rappel.

Photos

I placed a tricam in a small hueco at the bottom of the vertical section. One bolt on the route protects the first move well (as I proved several times!) Didn't find a quality placement for the last move (off the small ledge) but didn't really think it was necessary. A fun lead. The business is definitely getting off the ground. Oct 25, 2013
Alex Rogers
Sydney, Australia
  5.10a/b PG13
Alex Rogers   Sydney, Australia
  5.10a/b PG13
I seconded this - its pretty strenuous off the deck, wasn't sure whether to belay or spot my leader on this. Pro is quite tenuous above the crux, but difficulty drops off considerably - as Nelson says, the difficulty is one move. Sep 19, 2011
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10b
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10b
Slightly tricky pro above the initial bolt. Sort of a one move wonder climb - the bottom move is very fun; the rest of the climb is very easy up to the anchor. I managed to get a cam in above the initial hard move (metolius #00) and a nut in the crack system above. The bolt at the bottom is solid. Sep 19, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
On 1 November 2010, the LVCLC, with hardware from ASCA, who makes all things possible, replaced the anchor and the pro bolt on this route with 1/2 x 2.75" Stainless. The pro bolt was moved left about 2' due to rock quality concerns. ie, the original 1.75" bolt was in a hollow flake. Typical. Nov 1, 2010
Be solid at the grade; like most gear routes on this cliff, a hard fall might pull the whole climb down. Worth doing once. Mar 2, 2007