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Routes in Moderate Mecca

Abbey Road T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ace of Hearts T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Baby Swiss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Born To Bleed 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
Carpetbagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackers for my Soup T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Feelin' Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fleet Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goose Poop Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haj, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immoral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muckraker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mugwump TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Moderate T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Pending Disaster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Penny Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Route to Mecca, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scalawag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Singing Love Pen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Climbalot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Claims T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soup Nazi TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soupy Sales T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stew on This S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treacherous Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine's Day T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vera's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
You Who Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Moderate Mecca is just that - a mecca of many easy to moderate crack climbs. The climbing has quick access, straight-forward descents, and usually good pro. The face is sunny and warm, so it is well suited for colder days.

Getting There

Take highway 159 to Calico Basin road. This is the first major road east of the main Red Rocks park. Follow this road to a T intersection, then take a left and park at the picnic area at the end of the road.

Hike south on a path uphill. Then descend a short ways until it is possible to contour around to your right (west). This is the Moderate Mecca. The routes all start from this ledge system, which has cliffs below and above.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Moderate Mecca

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 129
Abbey Road
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 44
Sir Climbalot
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 259
Valentine's Day
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Pending Disaster
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
The Haj
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Fly From Soup to Nuts
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
 5
Born To Bleed
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Soup Nazi
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
Scalawag
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 80
Side Effects
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 101
Ace of Hearts
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 20
Immoral
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Feelin' Groovy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Baby Swiss
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Abbey Road
 129
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Sir Climbalot
 44
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Valentine's Day
 259
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Pending Disaster
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Haj
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Fly From Soup to Nuts
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Born To Bleed
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4 Boulder
Soup Nazi
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Scalawag
 53
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Side Effects
 80
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Ace of Hearts
 101
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Immoral
 20
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Feelin' Groovy
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Baby Swiss
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Moderate Mecca »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The name Moderate Mecca implies that it is some sort of destination or attraction, a concept I have substantial disagreement with. Relative to the rest of Red Rocks, the climbs here are short, dirty, broken, unaesthetic, and well, not as good. The area was more or less a waist of time for I and my moderate partner, who had better days everywhere else we went. We climbed a line or two that were touted as "one of the best lines at the crag" and found that to be at best a measured compliment, or perhaps more of a back-handed compliment.So I vote "blah" for this area. If what you seek is sun and a few lines to tick, you can go and have a good day, but it's a crag of local, not regional notability & quality. Feb 17, 2004
Moderate Mecca is a superb area for beginning to moderate climbers. South-facing, it gets LOTS of sun. The short approach makes this crag easily accessible to even the portliest climber. Driving to the parking area, however, takes one right through the heart of a residential area, so *please* be considerate of the neighbors.

Traveling west down West Charleston, turn right on to Calico Basin Road. Drive 1.2 miles to a T-intersection and turn left into the Red Spring picnic area. Park at the southernmost end of the lot. Walk south up the old road to a ridge. Head downhill about 25 meters and bear right on to the ledge. If you end up below the Easter Island head, you've gone too far (although there is a nice 5.10+ located here). Feb 18, 2004
This crag is not worth going to. The climbs are very short and, for the most part, chossy. Mar 16, 2004
My daughter Tia and I finished up three days at RR with a visit to Moderate Mecca. We had half a day before heading back to Riverside. It's quick to get to and has a number of short climbs of varying difficulty. We very much enjoyed ourselves. It's also a good formation for a windy day. There's some loose rock at the base and on the lower ledges but nothing to get agitated about. We plan on going back when we have limited time but still want to get some rockwork in. Apr 17, 2004
10b4me  
What a fun little afternoon of climbing. Some classic overhanging hand cracks,faces, and it is worth going to for a quick run up some fun routes. as per the norm some are better quality than others but I think it is always up to the people going. Some great gear leads valentines day, muckraker, scalawag, boodler, pending disaster, are all good and take good pro. a real classis is ace of hearts. take some small stuff like black and blue aliens, three of each should do and brassy's and 4bd and smaller wires. this is a bit of a more serious lead but a classic for the area. have a stong head and remember power by numbers. Apr 26, 2004
Here's my take on this area of short, chossy to high quality routes;

  • Great if you have limited time as approach is short
  • South facing; great for cooler months
  • Gorgeous surroundings with great views of the Spring Mountain range
  • Many choices of easy to difficult climbs
  • Good practice for you and your belayers in dealing chossy rock and rock fall.(You yell "ROCK" quite often)
  • Good practice for pulling "heady" cruxes (A lot of climbs in the area have a crux down low)
  • You can have a choice of walk-off or rap off on several of these routes.
  • Nice "picnic" ledges at the base for lying around/hanging out.
Feb 5, 2006
I am Inclined to agree with GiGi. Additionally, this crag is shady in the late afternoon/early evening in July. When it is 110F in the valley, it is surprisingly pleasant in this location (but heats up like a skillet in the sunny portions of the day.) There is quite often a nice breeze ( though occasionally it gets a bit too breezy; in that case, head over to the other side of Calico Basin, by Cannibal Crag and beyond.) It is also good in winter, as it warms up nicely in the morning, due to its southern exposure. Jul 29, 2009
The corner with the 5.6s was a great place to brush up on gear anchors at the top of some super short and easy trad pitches. I also particularly enjoyed Valentine's Day! However, we seem to have left this area one cam short, so if anyone picked up a #2 BD cam with purple and blue tape this week, a six pack could be yours if you help it find it's way back to me! Mar 25, 2016
Nick Jordan
Crested Butte, CO
Nick Jordan   Crested Butte, CO
Lost some cams here this past week, a .75 link cam and a number 3 camalot with a grey racking biner. Please let me know if you saw either of them! Thank you! Dec 5, 2017
Anybody lose a #1 in Dec 2017? If you can describe your tape and alpine draw colors I can mail it back to you. Jan 7, 2018

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