Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Ward 1991
Page Views: 6,422 total · 41/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This sporty route climbs a short crack and then huecos up a large detached boulder that guards the entrance to Moderate Mecca.

The lower crack could be protected by natural gear but contains several bolts. I would recommend unclipping the first bolt after passing it to reduce drag. This climb is almost a one move wonder but the rest of the climbing is so good you don't care. Overall this climb presents a fun jaunt.

Protection

7 bolts
Chains at top
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10b/c
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.10b/c
I thought this route was great fun. Following a well-protected dyno in the middle, the overhanging huecos make for a great climb! If you climb too slowly, the pump will catch you before the top... Aug 7, 2006
This climb was fun, but a little more than average dirty/crumbly towards the middle and top. Dec 31, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
first of all, .10b this isn't- its .10d for sure. Second, whats with the weird non-finish? The anchors are essentially reached from the ledge below, despite the headwall thats easily climbed between. weird. good route, though. the less than bold may want a yellow alien or purple camalot to protect the first 15' or so. Jan 13, 2008
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.10c/d
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.10c/d
For the brave, the crux move on the roof sets up reasonably well for a figure-4. Even with a bolt at your waist, it's a little heady though. Mar 10, 2010
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
BTW, the bolt protecting the crux throw/figure four/A2 move is junk (ie, tolerable if you were in the Fisher towers). john, we should hit that one sometime before it cools down enough to climb here again. May 23, 2010
Socka
Bloomington, IN
  5.10d
Socka   Bloomington, IN
  5.10d
Very nice, I would agree with .10 d if you do not have any beta. 3rd and the last bolts are loose. Btw the climb is not over until you stand up on the top of the pinackle. Dec 1, 2011
matthysj
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.11a/b
matthysj   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.11a/b
Pulling roof seems harder than 10+. Options seem to be a big dyno to rail or heal hook to undercling way left of bolt. Aiding on the quick draw was my method of choice. Dec 8, 2012
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
Finally got my redpoint! As John mentioned, a purple C4 is nice to protect before the first bolt. Using 2 double shoulder length draws (1 for the cam) and a single shoulder length draw for the first bolts before the roof is great for rope drag. 10c for the crux move, 10d for the whole climb, as there are still quite a few moves (albeit juggy) till you reach the top.

The bolt at the crux move is a spinner Mar 21, 2013
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
 
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
 
This thing felt harder than comparable .11- sport routes of similar character at RR. Very fun climbing, but still quite difficult.

As far as the condition of the bolts:

Bolt #3 (crux bolt) is a spinner. Final bolt before the anchors is protruding from the rock 1/4" Nov 26, 2013
Glue ins+calico softness=no more spinners. Anyone game to replace them? Nov 26, 2013
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
 
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
 
Killis, I'd be game to help out - if you don't have ASCA glue-ins I'd be willing to chip in for some. This route is super fun! Nov 27, 2013
MN norske
Henderson
  5.10c/d
MN norske   Henderson
  5.10c/d
Got my red point on this after the 2nd attempt. If you are solid at this grade have no worries but if you are pushing the grade worry about the 3rd bolt (crux) and last (crazy unsafe as in i was pushing it back in and it would slide out a 1/2 inch). This climb is epic but needs now bolts. I would help out as mentioned in recent post to replace them. Nov 30, 2013
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
Thanks to a donation from the ASCA and the LVCLC all of the pro bolts on Side Effects are now 6 1/2" SS FIXE glue ins. Jan 15, 2014
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
Adam Floyd is the man!!!!!! You rock buddy! Jan 16, 2014
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
 
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
 
^^^Xavier, that is a FACT. Thank you for the replacement work, Adam! Jan 16, 2014
Adal Bermann
San Diego, CA
  5.11+
Adal Bermann   San Diego, CA
  5.11+
Has a hold broken since this route was rated?

This climb was more difficult than 5.11's in the same area. Or perhaps I was missing beta? The crux requires traversing left on poor holds and slippery heel hooks over head, or a dyno way up high to a hold on the right.

Not a 5.10 by any stretch of the imagination. Jan 3, 2017
Christian H  
 
Thought this route had super fun climbing! I thought the chains were a little high, and getting to them was uncharacteristic with the rest of the route. (maybe it makes the rap cleaner?) Apr 12, 2017