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Routes in Moderate Mecca

Abbey Road T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ace of Hearts T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Baby Swiss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Carpetbagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackers for my Soup T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Feelin' Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fleet Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goose Poop Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haj, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immoral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muckraker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mugwump TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Moderate T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Pending Disaster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Route to Mecca, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scalawag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Singing Love Pen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Climbalot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Claims T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soup Nazi TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soupy Sales T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stew on This S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treacherous Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Valentine's Day T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Who Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jake Burkey, Todd Swain, Winston Farrar, 1999
Page Views: 2,172 total · 13/month
Shared By: John Wilder on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Although Valentine's Day gets all the traffic, this is definitely a not to be missed line if you're in the area. The Haj starts out in a left leaning dihedral and works up to an interesting exit move from the dihedral. From there, easy terrain leads up and right to a communal rap anchor.

Start left of Scalawag and Carpetbagger on the ledge system. Look for an acacia bush and then look up for the steep, varnished corner that is this fine route.

Protection

A standard rack will do- a two bolt anchor up and right gets you back to the deck with a single 60m.

Photos

outdooreric
Bishop, CA
 
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
 
A good route while it lasts. The clean dihedral is easier and better than it looks from the ground. I ended up going up and left to the Route to Mecca anchor which adds about 40 feet of rubble strewn 4th class for an unimpressive ending to an otherwise good climb.

Is there an anchor to the right, too? Dec 17, 2008
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
 
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
 
A great route on solid rock. Pulling on slightly insecure finger jams followed by knee bars and face climbing. Solid for the grade at the bottom. Old School 5.9. It climbs much steeper than it looks getting over the initial bulge. Nov 22, 2011
MN norske
Henderson
  5.9
MN norske   Henderson
  5.9
anchors are up and right 20 feet after you come out of the knee bar part. Mar 28, 2014
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
A more awkward alternative to valintines day. Short and sweet. Awkward being a good thing Mar 27, 2016
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.9+
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.9+
This excellent climb is the real deal. Stout for the grade (but probably not quite a 10a and not too long), a real challenge placing gear at the thin leaning finger crack. Jan 27, 2018

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