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Routes in Moderate Mecca

Abbey Road T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ace of Hearts T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Baby Swiss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Soup S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boodler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Carpetbagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackers for my Soup T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Feelin' Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fleet Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goose Poop Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haj, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Immoral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muckraker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mugwump TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Moderate T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Pending Disaster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Route to Mecca, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scalawag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Effects S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Singing Love Pen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Climbalot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Claims T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soup Nazi TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soupy Sales T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stew on This S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Treacherous Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Valentine's Day T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Who Jim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Swain, Farrar, Burkey '99
Page Views: 1,873 total · 10/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 19, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Carpetbagger is located on the far west side of the Moderate Mecca formation. Traverse the shelf past the obvious dihedrals Chicken Gumbo and Valentine's Day. Keep traverseing the shelf past a huge overhang with a boulder at the base (Scalawag), and you'll see a large open book.

Climb the open book past several miniature overhangs. The climbing is very easy between each little bulge. Look for fixed anchors off to the left, which are hidden until you get near them.

Rap the route, as the anchors are not at the top of the cliff.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

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46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.6
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.6
Good route only if you're heading over this way to climb the Haj or Route to Mecca. Has a couple loose blocks so use some caution. Nov 22, 2006
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
On 1 November 2010, the LVCLC/ASCA replaced the anchor, once a 1.75" rawl with one of Swain's whackjob coldshuts and a half-hanging out drilled angle, with 1/2x3.75" bolts w/ fixe chains. They were moved a bit lower due to, guess what, rock quality concerns. Nov 1, 2010
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
 
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
 
Maybe a little loose rock, but I thought that this was a pretty fun climb, not sure why it only has 1 star Apr 5, 2014
First Track Jack
Colorado
First Track Jack   Colorado
Fun and convoluted 5.6.... Big Boulder help ID start of route..... Mar 1, 2017
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.6
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.6
A fun little route that is good for new trad leaders. Mostly 5.4 climbing with a slightly awkward 5.6 crux down low; protection and rock quality are fair enough. As of this date good anchors are up and left after exiting the book. These anchors can be used to top rope both Mugwump and The Haj. Jan 27, 2018

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