Climbing Near Victor, Idaho

The Sinks Canyon of the Tetons.  On the west side of the range.South, Southwest facing, Madison limestone, unfortunately not Bighorn Dolomite, with very steep, fractured climbing on edges, pinches, tacky volumes, pockets, cracks and flowstone. A short, compact slab makes up the west side of the sector, while a very steep cave makes up the central part. A series of buttresses and prows bookend the east side of the venue. The blocky, chossy, gray stone is enhanced by blue and black streaks and panels of orange and red rock as well as by new route openers with several generations of experience.A beautiful setting with a moderate approach, that’s covered with snow from November to late April, containing difficult to extremely difficult climbing. Classic, as a ski tour. Please, no dogs. Caution: ⛔️ Rockfall risk. Drive to Fox Creek Quarry and park there or west, down the road 100m, or 200m and hike or ski Little Buttercup Trail north then east around the old quarry, new home site, and up for 45 minutes. Descend a climbers path below canyon rim to base of the wall. Follow M.P. map.

Darby Canyon is a large canyon draining the West slope of the Tetons. It is most famous for a popular hike to a cave. Recently, a small but enjoyable crag has been developed featuring about 20 routes. This crag is definitely not a destination, but if you are in the area (or are a local) - it is worth a visit. The climbing is on south facing limestone, and is in the sun until very late afternoon. Upon first hiking up the view is rather underwhelming - but the climbing is suprisingly enjoyable. The routes are short, but engaging, and require good technical slab climbing skills. Most climbs are in the 5.8-5.10 range. Technically, this crag is in Wyoming (barely), but is accessed through Idaho so I've placed it in Idaho. I've only climbed the routes listed - and the rock quality was generally good. There are another 10 climbs further right, which look good but have received less traffic - so I suspect they haven't cleaned up as much yet. NOTE: All star ratings are relative to other routes on this wall, so take them with a grain of salt (or piece of limestone). Grades listed are my opinion, and they differ from some of the other published material. Between Victor and Driggs (in eastern Idaho), turn East on 300 Street. You should immediately see a sign for Darby Canyon after you turn. Follow this until it ends, and turn right and follow the dirt road for about 2 miles into the canyon. Park at a turnout on the left with a Forest Service 034 sign. If you cross the creek on the road, you've gone too far. Hike up the main trail for a few minutes, and take the first trail on the right. This second trail is very well defined, so don't turn on any others accidentally. The second trail climbs up the ridge for a bit, and then cuts way right to the crags. It is about a 10-15 minute approach.

Sharp limestone in a remote and lonely pass with beautiful views of Fossil Mountain and Spearhead Peak. Obvious large boulder just NW and very close to the Teton Crest Trail