Avg: 3.1 from 70 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||July 30, 1938|
|Page Views:||11,514 total · 78/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Henderson on Apr 29, 2009 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
Rope up near some trees at the base of the arete.
P1 - Climb shallow cracks straight up for 20' then move through easier terrain to an open dihedral.
P2 - Ascend the open book (5.5) then a left-leaning ramp. Ascend double cracks (5.6) just right of the arete and continue on easier, blocky terrain. Belay right below dihedrals leading to a triple roof.
P3 - Sometimes called "the Nose" or "the Dihedral" pitch. Ascend the slick dihedrals (5.7 - or drop right to a 5.6 crack) and pass the roofs on the right. Stay close to the arete and ascend broken terrain to the base of a yellow slab.
P4 - Move left onto the yellow slab (sometimes also called "the Nose") to an old pin, place a small stopper in a diagonal crack for back-up and make a friction move (5.7) right up to a ledge. Continue for 30' on easy ground to a small bulge in a constriction. Surmount the bulge and continue up dark rock, eventually climbing a nicely featured black face just left of the crest to a large ledge. (The yellow slab can be climbed at the end of P3 and may leave you more rope for the long P4.)
P5 - Move the belay down to the base of a right slanting ramp. Ascend this ramp, then climb cracks up the steep wall above. Head for a large flake that protrudes out from the arete. You can pass behind the flake in the chimney or (more fun) by a nice crack on the outside (5.6.) Step right and belay on the large ledge.
To continue to the summit, it's a sometimes-exposed 400' scramble to the east. Begin on the crest of the ridge, then move right on a small ledge to a large notch above the descent route. You can rappel (1 rope) to the west from here if you prefer. To continue to the summit, move 50' right until ledges lead up and left around the nose of the arete to the top.
The descent begins down the NE face then moves west to the SW Couloir.
Approach from Symmetry Couloir by way of the Cascade Cyn horse trail.
From the horse trail, turn left up a brushy, faint climber's trail up-slope. The turnoff for the climber's trail is about 20ft past a stony water runoff, which also works but is less ideal. Approx. GPS coordinates of Climber's Trail: 43.768303,-110.753321