Direct Petzoldt Ridge
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.7 from 109 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Willi Unsoeld, LaRee Muns, James Shirley, Rodney Shirley, Austin Flint|
|Page Views:||40,208 total · 192/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Stayner on Mar 8, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
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This route is a classic in almost every sense. Certainly one of the most memorable combined with the Exum Ridge, or less commonly, if equipped for good snow, the Ford Coulior, either provides for an extremely enjoyable day in the mountains.
The crux is a well-protected (pins?) slot/roof on great holds. "The Window" pitch is perhaps one of the most memorable anywhere! The route climb from the right, East, side of the ridge to the west side.
Climbers should be aware that the route tops out on a minor summit. A 30’ thread through double lower or rappel or down climb is required to get off the ridge. From there, one can continue up the Ford Couloir. The preferred alternative is to traverse upwards on a ledge to the Exum Ridge at the entrance to the “Wind Tunnel” the most common option.