Type: Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Willi Unsoeld, LaRee Muns, James Shirley, Rodney Shirley, Austin Flint
Page Views: 32,316 total · 185/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

82 Opinions

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This route is a classic in almost every sense. Certainly one of the most memorable. If it's combined with the Upper Exum Ridge, it provides for an extremely enjoyable day in the mountains.
The crux is a well-protected (pins?) slot/roof on great holds. "The Window" pitch is perhaps one of the most memorable anywhere! The route seems to stay a bit on the right side of a ridge.

Climbers should be aware that the route does not top out on the summit. A 50' rappel must be done off the summit of the ridge. From there, one can continue up the Stettner Couloir/snowfields. The preferred alternative is to traverse upwards on a ledge to the Upper Exum Ridge. Either get an early start or solo/simul the Upper Exum if you choose this classic option!


The route is on the next ridge right of the Exum. Follow the Black Dike "trail" to the base. Start slightly on the right side of the ridge.


A Teton rack up to to 2" will cover you fine. You may need an ice axe in early-to-mid season.