Type: Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Willi Unsoeld, LaRee Muns, James Shirley, Rodney Shirley, Austin Flint
Page Views: 41,650 total · 188/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Mar 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This route is a classic in almost every sense. Certainly one of the most memorable combined with the Exum Ridge, or less commonly, if equipped for good snow, the Ford Coulior, either provides for an extremely enjoyable day in the mountains.

The crux is a well-protected (pins?) slot/roof on great holds. "The Window" pitch is perhaps one of the most memorable anywhere! The route climb from the right, East, side of the ridge to the west side. 

Climbers should be aware that the route tops out on a minor summit. A 30’ thread through double lower or rappel or down climb is required to get off the ridge. From there, one can continue up the Ford Couloir. The preferred alternative is to traverse upwards on a ledge to the Exum Ridge at the entrance to the “Wind Tunnel” the most common option.

Location Suggest change

The route is on the next ridge right of the Exum. Follow the Black Dike "trail" to the base. Start slightly on the right side of the ridge.

Protection Suggest change

A Teton rack up to to 2" will cover you fine. You may need an ice axe in early-to-mid season.