Avg: 3.9 from 447 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches|
|FA:||September 1st, 1936 Jack Durrance and Kenneth Henderson|
|Page Views:||117,215 total · 580/month|
|Shared By:||Steven Lucarelli on Jul 5, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
The Durrance Direct, is a classic route on the southeast side of the Grand Teton. All of the pitches are good but the 5th pitch is by far the best being that it's steep, exposed and still only 5.7.
P1: A large chimney with some chockstones in it. Squeeze through a hole under the chockstones about halfway up and then climb out of the chimney on the right shortly after that and up to a large ledge. Or start in the chimney for 10 feet, then move right and climb the face, which is a better option assuming you have a pack. Either way is 5.6 with good pro.
P2: Climb easy terrain up and left following some cracks to another nice ledge. 5.5.
P3: Move the belay to the base of a nice hand crack. Climb the crack up and left then traverse back right where the rock has large black section, and pull up onto lower angle rock. 5.7.
P4: Climb up past a large chockstone (I climbed around it on the outside) and to a broken up ledge at the base of the steep 5th pitch. (Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined barely with a 50m rope). 5.7.
P5: The Black Face. Climb up and right from the ledge and follow a crack with a few pins in it. Belay at a pin and fixed cam. Steep and awesome 5.7.
P6: Climb straight up an awkward crack on smooth rock and then head right on easier terrain but with minimal gear. 5.7. Belay on Wall Street ledge. (An easier option is to go left from the belay which also ends up on Wall Street)
Combining the Lower and Upper Exum Ridge to the summit is a great way to climb the Grand.
The first pitch is a large chimney (or face to the right of the chimney, recommended) which is visible from the saddle and requires some scrambling or easy climbing to get to.
Descend the Owen Spalding route to the Upper Saddle and don't drop down the first gully that leads southeast. Instead go farther west and look for some climbers trails that work their way down to the Lower Saddle