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Routes in Grand Teton

Bean's Shining Wall of Storms T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beyer East Face I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Ice Couloir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3-4
Collins-Coombs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Collins-Hume T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerson Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) WI2-3 Mod. Snow
Gold Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Traverse, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jackson-Rickert Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Lower Exum Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Highlight Tour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Face Standard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Side Lowlight Tour (path of least resistance) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Owen Spalding T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Perception Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Pownall-Gilkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psudo Emerson Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Exum Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face of the Exum Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wittich Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 6 pitches
FA: September 1st, 1936 Jack Durrance and Kenneth Henderson
Page Views: 66,556 total, 477/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Jul 5, 2006 with updates
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

The Lower Exum Ridge is a classic route on the southeast side of the Grand Teton. All of the pitches are good but the 5th pitch is by far the best being that it's steep, exposed and still only 5.7.

P1: A large chimney with some chockstones in it. Squeeze through a hole under the chockstones about halfway up and then climb out of the chimney on the right shortly after that and up to a large ledge.

P2: Climb easy terrain up and left following some cracks to another nice ledge.

P3: Move the belay to the base of a nice hand crack. Climb the crack up and left then traverse back right and pull up onto lower angle rock.

P4: Climb up past a large chockstone (I climbed around it on the outside) and to a broken up ledge at the base of the steep 5th pitch. (Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined barely with a 50m rope)

P5: Climb up and right from the ledge and follow a crack with a few pins in it. Belay at a pin and fixed cam.

P6: Climb straight up an awkward crack on smooth rock and then head right on easier terrain but with minimal gear. Belay on Wall Street ledge. (An easier option is to go left from the belay which also ends up on Wall Street)

Combining the Lower and Upper Exum Ridge to the summit is a great way to climb the Grand.

Location

Finding the route can be a little tricky if you've never been up there before. From the Lower Saddle head north toward the Grand but instead of going up the ridge traverse down along the east side of the saddle. Continue scrambling east and keep an eye out for a black band of rock that runs east to west and is where the route starts from. The first pitch is a large chimney which is visible from the saddle and requires some scrambling or easy climbing to get to. Descend the Owen Spalding route to the Upper Saddle and don't drop down the first gully that leads southeast. Instead go farther west and look for some climbers trails that work their way down to the Lower Saddle

Protection

I used a small selection of cams from a green Alien to a #3 Camalot and about 10 nuts of various sizes and felt that was adequate. There are several pins on pitch five and a few rap anchors on the route in different locations.

Description

Fairly Large formation between Pinpoint Pinnacle and Loeber's Leap

Photos

It goes without saying but I will - this route is amazing; the geology of the rock isn't like anything I've seen- wild, spike like features and pitches that look like a jewelry store; it's really clean with very smooth granite. We went heavy on the rack, doubles .3-1, single 2, folded a 70m in half and simuled the lower Exum in two pitches in about 2 hours including being stuck behind a couple slow parties that were nice enough to let us pass. We unroped for the upper. For descent we skipped the first rap by down climbing a small bit that is skiers right about 20-30' from station then did the lower rap with a 60m, a group was nice enough to let us rap their rope. There wasn't any snow on route. The pictures on Supertopo and the incredible info on http://wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/ should get you to the route pretty easily. Aug 6, 2017
This route is the Durance Direct. Nothing lower or Exum about it.... Aug 7, 2016
claytown
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Tons of beta pictures at this link

wyomingwhiskey.org/2013/01/… Jul 14, 2013
Ray Pinpillage
West Egg
Ray Pinpillage   West Egg
If you're using a 70m rope to rap on the decent then you can combine P5 and P6 and belay from Wallstreet. We linked P3/P4 and P5/P6. Sep 11, 2012
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Super classic route and awesome climbing. For a very memorable pitch, link the black face and next pitch with one 70 m monster alpine pitch. Awesome. The holds, the climbing, the history, the gear - all make this an amazing pitch of rock climbing! Aug 20, 2012
Robert Henderson
Wilson, WY
Robert Henderson   Wilson, WY
There are many options on this route. If the p1 chimney is too cold for the fingers, walk right around the corner and climb a 5.6 face that gets some morning sun. Also the face just right of the chimney is hard-to-protect 5.8. The Black Face, p5, has at least 2 crack lines about 8-10 feet apart. The right one is the traditional one but the left one goes, too. At the end of the pitch, instead of belaying in the alcove, one can traverse left to the edge of an arete and a dynamite belay stance. From there, a steep slab/crack with a little more RO than some would like leads back right to the main crack. It's a very scenic and less claustrophobic variation. Apr 19, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.7
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.7
A classic line on a classic peak.

The approach from the lower saddle to the base of the approach ramp took about 30 minutes. It begins about 10 minutes up the Owen-Spaulding trail from the lower saddle, and heads east eventually hitting the black dyke. If you get to the Petzold ridge you've gone too far. In the morning darkness, we accidentally scrambled up the wrong ramp and ended up on top of the first pitch. Our ramp was consistently 4th class. Apparently another ramp begins slightly further west, but we missed it in the darkness.

All the pitches on the Lower Exum are awesome. The black face is particularly memorable - steep, positive holds, and great gear. We linked pitches 3 and 4 listed above.

We left the Lower Saddle at 4:00am, and we're at the top of Wall Street at 8:15am. We were moving efficiently, but not speed climbing by any means.

There was no sun until we hit Wall Street and the base of the Upper Exum ridge. And with a breeze, it was a little chilly even on a hot summer day. So plan on cold conditions if you are climbing this in early or late summer.

For the Upper Exum, we just did a continuous running belay. We hit the top at 10:15am.

Gear: Nuts, including small ones. Set of finger size cams. Doubles 0.75-2" camalots. One #3 camalot. And a big hex. 14 long runners (and that was just enough).
Jul 21, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
The start can be difficult to locate, especially in the pre-dawn hours. The easiest approach is to go beyond (right of) the starting pitch, easy talus walking on the black dyke. At some point there is a small cairn marking a traverse back left on a generally wide but sometimes exposed ledge. It deposits you right at the base of the first pitch "chimney". Describing P1 as a chimney is a little confusing, as it is more like a gigantic, featured open book. Very visible from the Lower Saddle in the evening if you know where to look.

See my trip report at gibell.net/trip_reports/tet… Jul 5, 2006